Most motor caravans and motorhomes need LVV Certification, or Heavy Vehicle Certification if the GVM is over 3500kg.
The Toyota Hiace pictured needs certification because it has had a roof-chop, and a fibreglass hi-top fitted. The Certifying Engineer has to be satisfied that the structural integrity of the vehicle is not compromised by the modification.
Seats and seatbelts- There needs to be a seat, and seatbelt for every sleeping berth in a motor-home. A typical Van chassis might have 4 berths, but only two front seasts. This means that two additional seating positions will have to be provided.
Side-facing lap-belts are legal, but not a good option, because of the poor protection that they provide. The picture above shows a typical Seatbelt Anchorage frame for two occupants with 3 point lap and diagonal belts. This structure is concealed by the caravan furnishings.
Note that rear facing seats also need to be able to restrain occupants in a frontal collision, so a suitable back and headrest is required.
Caravans heavier than 3500kg require Certification by a HV Engineer, and we can provide that Certification also.
By John Brett Technology Ltd ph 0800 LOWVOLUME (0800 569865)
Hi I have a motor home that has been modified then certified in 2003 … how do i go about having its GVM re checked if i think its not correct
The first stop should be VTNZ, VINZ, or AA, at a proper testing station.
You could email me the details and I could see what I could find out.
Regards
John
Just had a COF done and the inspectors muttered somthing about the fact that the tandem wheel rear axel wa not standard to a 1988 dyna truck and it looked like the GVM was n the light side the tare weight is 3300kg and the GVM is 3550kg ? i have looked at similar trucks with a motor home coversion and the GVM is much higher ? what should i do
Truck has a 100litre water tank plus my wife and i and we look over the limit … truck was turned into a motor home by a wellington boat builder and he did a great job … chassis has been lengthened by 900mm and its all certified and drives very well and is stable.. rego is DAM22
All the info you want will be on Landata, including the details of the Certification and the approved GVM. See my previous comment- get a Testing Station to access Landata and look at NOTES and IVCERT screens.
Regards
John
yes did that and the figures are correct for that model Dyna truck LY60 but we are thinking that the rear axel is different ?…. heard that you are aok up to 5% over your GVM ? and that would give me another 176kg
Excellent post, couldn’t agree more. I found your post through Bing.
Hi, I have a long wheel base ford transit I use as campervan. I was thinking of building a pop-top to gain some extra headroom. Where can I find some guidelines on what is required for this kind of modification?
Are you planning a whole roof cutout, with a Fibreglass hi-top, or just a lifting section? The aim is to make sure that it will meet the requirments before you start. Best idea is to talk to a Certifier in your area. If you are in Auckland ring us on 0800 569865 Regards John
It will be a lifting section, I’m up in Northland, I guess i can still give you guys a call…
hiya, can anyone help me to find a fibreglass hi top for a 1998 nissan vannette (which they tell me is just a re badged mazda).i am in Waitakere….cheers
Hi John
I am looking to convert a 1998 Honda Stepwagon – RF1 chassie in a small camper van. Among some other things I am looking to make a removable fibreglass roof canopy which I am planning to take off from the vehicle for the day to day use, so I can still park it in the garage.
The car has already two sun roofs on the top, one of them reasonably large approx 500 x 700mm. This will give enough access for the kids to get up in a bed mounted in the roof top cavity. I do not intend to cut the vehicle roof, just to mount the fiberglass canopy on top of the existing roof by using the existing 3 points per side factory made roof rack mounting holes as fixing points.
Is any certification required in this case as I am not doing any modifications to the vehicle other than virtually mounting a roof box?
Please advise.
Thanks & regards
What a clever conversion! I agree with you that there does not seem to be any structural modification which would need Certification. The part you are adding would just be a “roof-rack”. Check the Honda ratings for roof-rack loads etc to be on the safe side. Regards
John
I purchased a Ford Econovan Hitop 1992 an ex rental. Was warranted when purchased and got first warrant no problem. On trying for 2nd warrant told I need to have the fibreglass top certified. Is this correct and if so how do the rental companies get warrants without certification.
Advice would be appreciated.
John
Yes you need a Cert.
Regards
John
Hi I have a Mitsubishi Rosa with a GVM of 6100, I have seen other Rosas and their GVM is 6000 which means it can be driven on a car licence, how do I reduce my GVM by 100.
I’m sorry Derek, I don’t have any real knowledge on the subject. I believe that NZTA do have a system, a TSD agent such as VTNZ should be able to advise.
Hi .. I have a 1996 hi roof,super custom toyota hiace and im looking for a fibre glass roof top to convert and extend .. where could i find someone to make one .. or does someone know where i may find a ready made one .. and how much would something like this cost to certify? thanks Mike
Hi Myke
I know exactly what you mean, but can’t help. I can only suggest you see who is doing fibreglass these days, or even try one of the Caravan builders. As for Certification, there is a bit of a shortage now- I suggest you ask NZTA on their 0800 108 809
Thanks for your query
Regards
John
Hi I am just about to start re- building my chopper motorcycle frame to get legal as old frame was not up to standard
It is a hardtail frame I am building
1st question were do I start
what welds have to be Cerf
do I need to use seamless pipe
shane
Hi Shane
If you are in Auckland, or nearby, the man you should speak to is Alex Gee, on 027 2647282. He will give you all the answers. I suggest you contact Alex first, to avoid doing things he might want you to change later.
There is no charge for this free advice, but could I ask that you make a small donation to my ‘Give-a Little’ campaign? This is to cover legal costs for defending myself from Defamation charges made by Mr Johnson of the LVVTA.
If you did want to, just click though to the Give-a Little page.
Thanks
John
ive got a ford transit custom (monocoque design) the im converting into a camper im wanting to drill holes in the floor the shower is the biggest at 80mm and the rest are 25mm.ill only be drilling through the floor skin no chassis rails or crossmembers will be touched do you think this will be alright or will it need a certifer to look at it
Hi Anthony
I know the Transit well, I helped put them into production at Ford Seaview, Those holes will not be any problem for a WOF. No Cert needed
Cheers John
Hi John, I’m investigating a 4wd ute based camper build. If a camper is permanantly attached to the chassis, and the pass through from cab to camper is via removing the existing window with no alteration to the cab structure, is LVV certification or engineering input required? I am aware of tight payload and am looking at ute models where a legal GVM upgrade is available to take the payload to the maximum available, and as light a construction as possible. thanks, Megan
Hi Megan
What a great idea! I take it that this is not fitting into an existing tray, but replacing the tray.
There is no structural alteration involved, so no Certification needed. The first WOF inspection will check body mountings, lights etc, and if satisfied issue a WOF. You will still need an Electrical Cert if you have mains power, a gas certificate, and a self containment inspection, (NOT WOF ITEMS) but not a LVV Certification.
Good luck
John
Hi John
I’ve been looking at an ex-hire campervan that was imported as a standard low roof Hiace van and then chopped and fitted with a fibreglass high top. Three roof bow braces were removed for the install.
The van has LVV certification (from 2007) but has bowed outwards by 30mm on each side at the centre pillar (C pillar) at the rain gutter level. The deflection gradually decreases as the C pillar descends to meet the chassis.
Inspection reveals that no additional strengthening has been built in to compensate for the removal of the roof panel and roof bows. To my eye, the structural integrity of the van has been compromised.
In your opinion, does this work meet the requirements for LVV certification and if not, how should the vehicle have been strengthened and, should the owner wish to make a claim against someone, who is that someone (e.g. former owner, certifier, NZTA etc.)?
Thanks
Bill
Hi Willliam
Sorry to take so long to reply
The vehicle should already have a LVV Certification if it has been on the road in NZ
Look for the Cert plate, or ask the Low Volume Vehicle Technical Association if it is certified, and about the safety of the vehicle
Regards
John
Hi,
Im building a 2005 Ford transit lwb xtrahigh roof camper,ive seen its ok to put a roof vent in the roof and i beleive side windows are ok if only going through non stressed single layer of panel steel and not within 150mm of seat belt anchorage. Anyway as much as ive searched i put a service hatch into the side of the vehicle for the toilet cassette to pass through,single layer only and no supports cut into and over 150mm to seat belt fixing,is a service hatch classed as a window or does it need certification thanks
Hi Murray-
I don’t believe that any LVV Certification is needed for this. It might pay for you to check with your local WOF agent- it is their responsibility to make the decision.
Cheers
John