John Brett

John is a professional engineer with 50 years experience.

John has designed and built many cars, trucks, and vehicle assembly facilities.

John has worked on design of roads, bridges, cranes, transmission towers, and buildings, and operation, maintenance and upgrade of hydro and gas turbine power stations.

John was a LVV Certifier for 13 years. John has long been a whistle-blower, expressing the view that the LVV system is dangerously deficient. John’s authority was revoked in December 2012.

John rides a 1992 Yamaha FJ1200ABS, and is also a keen road and off road cyclist.

APOLOGY

“The LVVTA has brought it to my attention that statements I have made in relation to it and its employees may have been perceived as defamatory.

I sincerely regret that and apologise for any harm caused. I have taken down the statements identified by the LVVTA of concern to it.

I have strong views about the low volume vehicle certification process and intend in the future to direct my energies into the public inquiry now being held in relation to it.”

John Brett 7th October 2015

Disclaimer

1. Disclaimer

The opinions, beliefs and viewpoints expressed by the various authors and forum participants on this web site do not necessarily reflect the opinions, beliefs and viewpoints of the owners of this website or official policies of the owners of this website

2. Copyright Statement and Policy

A. The author of each article published on this web site owns his or her own words.
B. The articles on this web site may be freely redistributed in other media and non-commercial publications as long as the following conditions are met.
(i)    The redistributed article may not be abridged, edited or altered in any way without the express consent of the author.
(ii)   The redistributed article may not be sold for a profit or included in another media or publication that is sold for a profit without the express consent of the author.
(iii)    The articles on this web site may be included in a commercial publication or other media only if prior consent for republication is received from the author. The author may request compensation for republication for commercial uses.

3. Submissions

An article may be submitted for possible publication on this web site in the following manner.

A. Logging in an Author
B. The website owners reserve the right to approve or decline Authors.
C. Articles are published on this web site only on the condition that the author agrees to the terms of the Copyright Statement and Policy above.

Wheel Spacers FAQ’s

Wheel Spacers are the subject we are most common asked about.
The rules are all on the LVVTA website in the Wheels and Tyre Standard 2005-00

Adaptors

Non-Legal spacers

WHEELS MUST BE CENTRALISED ON HUB

SPACERS need to be ‘Hub Centric’ and ‘Wheel-Centric’, or a centering ring has to be made to centralise the wheel and the spacer.
This means in practice, that wheel spacers will need to be custom-made to suit the specific vehicle and wheel combination.
Also you will probably need to fit longer wheel studs to keep the required thread engagement of the nuts.

ADAPTORS are Centered on the hub by the tapered nuts hulding them onto the hub. The wheel is then Centered on the adaptor by the tapered nuts holding the wheel on.
Centering spigots for the adaptor or the wheel are not required. (See LVV Standard 2005-00)

ADAPTORS MUST BE STRONG ENOUGH NOT TO FAIL

The LVV Standard says that adaptors ‘are manufactured by someone competent and experienced in the type of work undertaken, who has the necessary equipment to carry out the manufacturing correctly’
We do not know many people in Japan, or China, and find this clause to be unhelpful.
Instead we:-

1 Do a material hardness test to determine the likely material. Most adaptors are T6 Aluminium Alloy, which has a hardness of 40 to 45 Rockwell C. We do NOT want to accidentally certify any adaptors made of soft alloy, zinc castings or shite metal!!

2 Do a simple stress calculation (using a spreadsheet template) to determine the shear stress between the bolts, and the shear under the bolt head. The adaptor should be equal in strength to the wheel studs. We find that adaptors THINNER than about 12mm are usually over-stressed.

THICKNESS
Spacers are not permitted to be more than 20 mm
Adaptors are not permitted to be more than 27 mm,
Most adaptors are to compensate for wheels with wrong offset offset, (not to effect a change in stud pattern).

WHY IT MATTERS!!
Wheels flying off can kill people (it has happened more than once)
Wheels flying off can make controlling the vehicle a tad tricky, especially since it is likely to happen under hard cornering.
People getting killed is clearly to be avoided- as is getting sent to jail for manslaughter.
THIS IS WHY ALL SPACERS AND ADAPTORS REQUIRE LVV CERTIFICATION

Failed Wheel Adaptor

Failed Wheel Adaptor

THIS IS WHY WE HAVE BEEN CHECKING THE MATERIAL COMPOSITION OF ALL ADAPTORS FOR 10 YEARS

Additional information-
Tyre and rim sizes-
The LVVTA compatibilty chart can be found here

This is based on the best information available at the time the chart was written- however a Tyre manufacturers reccomendation takes preference- so check with the tyre manufacturer if you want to use a combination outside these guidelines.

Hope this clears up any confusion, and helps you to get it right before going for your Cert.

168 comments to Wheel Spacers FAQ’s

  • matt

    Hi i am fitting a hilux diff to my escort which requires the changing of the pcd from 5×114.3 to 4x 108 what are the laws on this? i am not running adaptor plates so do i need to have a positive hub locator ring fitted. standard escort or hilux do not have this fitted factory on the rear axle. Also what are the laws on widenend steel rims are they legal if done by a professional?
    many thanks.
    Matt Henderson

    • johnbrett

      Hi Matt- to change the PCD why not re-drill the Hilux hubs? If not, you could make an adaptor plate. Either way, the tapered wheel nuts centre the wheel adequately, and tapered nuts centre an adaptor to the hub.
      Widened steel wheels are ‘legal’, the standard says “-by someonewho is suitably competent and experienced in the wheel manufacturing or modification industry” Hope this helps, John

  • Aurelian

    Hi there, i need for my celica gt4 2 wheel spacers for front wheels, 15mm. Can u tell me the price for them?
    Cheers.

  • Hayden

    Are there certain brands or companies you would recommend that are 100% safe to use?

    My purpose is to save my tyres from inner wear. (Car has recently been lowered)

    I own an EG6 honda civic hatchback on superlow king springs.

    • johnbrett

      The first thing is that you are going to need a LVV Cert
      Secondly, your wheel alignment has to be reasonable- too much negative camber will give you inner wear.
      Check your camber against factory specs. If it is too much, you might have the car too low.
      For Nissans there are adjustable Camber arms, not sure if they make them for Honda Civics. These will bring excessive negative camber back to standard.
      I see that they are making the Police into roadside WOF inspectors now- some think they are roadside LVV Certifiers too! Watch out!

  • Craig

    Hi

    Ummm… how many people have been killed in New Zealand because of spacer failure? And what are the rules if you a buying a new car where, as an option, you can select spacers from the factory as an option?

    Thanks
    Craig

    • johnbrett

      If a new car offered spacers as a factory option, they would have been tested by the manufacturer to the same standards as the rest of the car. I don’t know of any myself.
      If a dealer is fitting them aftermarket, they would need to go through the LVV system.
      As to “how many people have been killed in New Zealand because of spacer failure?” who would keep those sort of statistics? We have all seen what happens when wheels come off, and know the reasons why. As Engineers, the deal is that you prevent the accident from happening, not wait until you have a body count.

  • Craig

    Porsche offer spacers as part of their options list. Re your glib comment re wheels coming off, body count and who would keep those sort of statistics? Exactly, because its not a real risk. Outside of race events, I’m not sure I can remember such an event and if you look at the states where they have no certification rules for spacers, people aren’t dying in the streets.

  • johnbrett

    Porche have a range of “Adaptors” to go with specific wheels. I have Certified a few Porches with aftermarket set-ups on them. Adaptors have the risk of failure if they are too thin, or the material is sub-standard, or the design faulty. Spacers need to be hub-centric and wheel-centric, also have long enough wheel studs, or wheels WILL come off, and DO come off, and on the roads.
    In the United States the Lawyers make lots of money suing people for injury and death- which is what would happen to you if a wheel came off and caused an accident. In NZ we don’t have that right to sue, it all falls to the ACC to pay.
    If you want to argue about the need for LVV Certification, you should come out and see some of the dangerous stuff that we are presented with regularly- and if you want to argue about injuries and deaths, you should talk to the people who have to clean up the mess. For every DEATH, there are hundreds of INJURY accidents, people who lose parts of their bodies etc.

  • Jade

    Hi I have recently widened a set of 14×5 steel wheels buy drilling out the spot welds putting the centres into new 14×8 barrels. I have plug welded them the the subsequent holes and also stitched the back of them. Do they need to be certified?

  • Richard

    Why is max spacing 20mm, yet adapter max 27mm? Makes no sense…

  • Richard

    Also if I have 27mm billet T6061 Ali spacers with magnesium hardened lug nuts and extended studs that are actually lighter with a custom race wheel than the stock wheel, where is the logic that an adaptor is ok at 27mm, but not these spacers at 27mm?? The only difference is I am retaining stock bolt pattern… Or am I missing something and being thick?

    • johnbrett

      Unfortunately these are the LVV Standards that we have to work to- as Certifiers we don’t get a say. Many of the LVV Standards are clearly wrong, dangerous, and miss out the really important stuff. You would need to take this up with the Low Volume Vehicle Technical Association

  • steak nz

    hi my car has been certified for 17 by 8 rims. I want to put on 17 by 7 rims now. surely I wont have to get recerted will I? will I be denied for a wof? thanks

    • johnbrett

      According to the words from the Low Volume technical Association it DOES need to be Certified again! On the other hand, it should be OK according to the WOF rules! You could phone the LVVTA on 04 2384343

  • Rodney

    Hi there… Recently purchased some 20×10 rims which at this stage look
    Like they might be a bit too wide. In hindsight could have possibly gone to 20x 9.5. Is there any way to remedy the 20×10 rim to give a little bit more extra space between the chassis and inner side of tyre/rim?? Thank you

    • johnbrett

      You could consider spacers or adaptors to set the wheel out further from the hub. These are a huge wheel- would need to be on a big car with enough wheelarch space. Unless the car is a 4WD you will need a very low profile tyre. Take care not to fit ‘stretched’ tyres, because they would not get a WOF or a LVV Cert. Hope this helps

  • Rodney

    Thanks John for your quick response… It’s going on a 65 impala.. Hope that’s big enough .. Ha ha

  • Ethan

    im fitting adapters to my car but when you put them on the old stud still pokes through meaning the wheel wont sit on the hub but it will be on the old studs… am i able to cut the old studs off flush with the face of the adapter or do i need to get a small hole drilled into the rear of the wheel for the old studs to sit in.

    • johnbrett

      Hi Ethan- usually the studs are cut shorter. Make sure that the adaptor nuts have full thread engagement. Also check that the wheel will fit over the adaptor nuts. Don’t modify the wheel in any way- any modification could possibly result in fatigue cracks in the wheel. Hope this helps- John

  • Ethan

    so from what your saying im allowed to cut the end off the original stud that pokes out through the adapter?

  • johnbrett

    Yes- but remember you won’t be able to go back to standard wheels with the short studs!

  • Blair

    Hi there
    I have put some smaller wheels on my super custom van but they wouldn’t fit over the centre hub on the front so I have put some 25mm adapters all round which also didn’t fit on the front so the shop I brought them off lathed out the centre of the adaptor to fit. Is this ok an does it need to have a low volume cert???

    • johnbrett

      Hi Blair- it is going to need a Low Volume Cert. There is no easy answer, I would need to look at it to see what is a problem, and what is OK. Phone me on 0800 569865 (that’s 0800 LOWVOLUME)

  • Tom

    Hi im fitting some wheel spacers 2 my tx3. It allready has a cert for suspension, how much would it cost to get wheel spacers added to it?

    • johnbrett

      Its going to need a full cert- we might be able to get the LVV Plate cheaper from LVVTA, best to phone us
      Tell me about the spacers to save problems

  • Michael Chainey

    Hi there, i brought a set of 25mm spacers the other day as my new tyres/mags hit the shocks, so i need the spacers to provide more room on the inside. Can you give me a rough figure of how much this will cost me to get all 4 of them certified?

    • johnbrett

      Hi Micheal- You would need to phone us to discuss a price. More important is whether they would be able to be passed. Phone us on 0800 569865 that’s 0800 LOWVOLUME

  • rod

    i have bought 3mm spacers to fit some 300c srt8 wheels 20x 9 ET27 to my std 300c which takes a 18 x 7.5 ET24 other wise the inner rim will touch the susp strut. are there any other issues that i need to think about re the stud/bolts etc. and obviously i need a lvv cert?

    • johnbrett

      I think we have discussed this- the spacers need to meet the LVV requirements, which include wheel centering, spacer retention, thread engagement etc, and they will need LVV Certification. A better plan is to look for wheels that don’t need spacers. Regards John

  • Dennis

    Can I fit alloy wheels with a hub centre of 56.1 to a car with a hub centre of 57.1

    • johnbrett

      Hi Dennis- are you saying that the hole in the wheel is smaller than the centre of the hub? If it is, the wheel would not fit over, would not fit. Perhaps you could phone us on 0800 LOWVOLUME, (0800 569865) Regards John

  • Ben

    Hi there,

    Im looking at putting 15 or 20mm wheel spacers on a 2004 350rx Stagea, do you know how much it would cost for a LV cert, and do you recommend a particular set of wheel spacers? Or do you know of a genuine factory option for this make and model that i could just order to fit?
    If you could respond to email as i have a few questions reg your answer to any of these questions

    Cheers.

    • johnbrett

      Hi Ben- There are no factory adaptors or spacers for this model. You should explore the option of using wheels with the offset you require so you don’t need a Cert. Adaptors are a critical safety item and there do not seem to be any manufacturer standards,it is very possible that there are some unsafe items out there. We do a thorough inspection to determine material, and stress. I recommend you phone us on 0800 569865 to discuss further. regards, John

  • Tony

    Hi we have a Honda logo with 15″ mags and 5mm spacers to prevent tyre rub, however I would like to fit larger profile tyres and potentially they might be slightly wider. If I fitted 20mm wheel adaptors do I need to get a cert?. I did hear that if the adapter was welded to the mag, that I wouldn’t have to get a cert.

    Thanks
    Tony.

    • johnbrett

      Hi Tony- Spacers and adaptors ALWAYS need a LVV Cert- there’s a lot can go wrong! Don’t do any aftermarket welding onto an alloy wheel- you will destroy the temper of the alloy and the wheel will be scrap. Hope this helps. John

  • Jared

    Hi i have a 94 toyota supra and running big brake setup of toyota 4 pot front and 2 pot rear and running a 9.5″ wheel ( tyre 245/40/18 ) on the front offset is +22 & 10.5″ wheel ( 265/35/18 ) on the rear the problem is these do not clear the 4 pots on the front. If i put on spacers ( minimum 15mm ) if will push the wheel out further but what i want to know is how far is the wheel allowed to be outside the body?

    • johnbrett

      Hi Jared
      I would use ADAPTORS not spacers, but make sure that they are made of T6 alloy. The TYRE TREAD has to be covered, to stop road spray from going upwards, but the sidewall and rim can be outside the guard. I haven’t checked tyre to rim compatibility- but those tyre sizes seem too small for the rim width- you should check this by the tyre manufacturer’s chart. All of this will need LVV Certifying- don’t wait until you get n infringement notice! Hope this helps- regards John

  • Jared

    Hi John

    Thanks for your quick reply. Sorry they are adaptors not spacers my mistake, The adaptors are hub centric and are CNC machined aluminium T6-6061. I only went on what was under the lvv chart http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2009_V2_Tyre_Size_to_Wheel_Size_Compatibility_Guide.pdf . Will check to see if tyre tread is covered thanks.

  • Corey

    Hi John,
    I am planning on putting wheel spacers on my rear wheels. If I get some Spacers (below 10mm) that are hub centric and put hub centring rings over the top to fit my wheels is that legal? or will I have to get some spacers custom made to integrate the change in size from hub to wheel? Thanks in advance

    • johnbrett

      Hi Corey- The main object is to centralize the wheel to the hub- and a centering ring should achieve this. Hope this helps- John

  • Jared

    Hi John 1 other question if i used a spacer of 8mm ( universal ) made out of t6 alloy and bought and fitted longer wheel studs to compensate would this be up to lvv certifying standard? If not why? Thanks.

  • Daniel

    Hi
    I have a mr2aw11 stock pcd of 4×100 and want to change the pattern to 4×114.3. I do not want to go down the track of ‘hub adaptors’ but rather redrill the hubs+rotors to the new pcd of 4×114.3. After doing a bit of research online it looks this cannot be possible due to the stock aw11 hubs not having a large enough diameter to accomodate for the wider stud pattern.I was just wondering if you would know any shop/engineer that could make custom hubs? Or is there any other options around this. Any information would be greatly appreciated thank you.

    • johnbrett

      Making custom hubs is likely to be expensive- I would have thought that making adaptors would have been easier.
      For an Engineering company, I can recommend Prescott Engineering, in Prescott street Penrose, Ph 09 5797424
      Hope this helps- John

  • G

    hey john im going to put OEM 19″x8 et40 5×100 replica a8 wheels on my 2001 black audi tt quattro 4×4 1.8t which has an et35 and will need spacers 10mm all round im in wellington can you point me in the right direction to get some or some made? or brands that meet requirements would help alot thanks

    • johnbrett

      These look fine. I always check the material with a hardness test. The material specified is here:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2024_aluminium_alloy, at least 200 Mpa max tensile strength. I also check stress loadings between the holes and under the bolt heads. If they come with a copy of TUV approval, this covers all of this. (I worry about the spacers /adaptors from unknown source, made from shite metal- I hope nobody accidentaly certifies them!)

  • Robert

    Hi,
    I’m looking at getting some 20mm hub centric bolt on spacers for a 93 vr commodore just for the rear wheels as they tuck under the body, would like them to sit out further basically. The spacers I’m looking at are a high strength alloy, what are my options , will I need a cert for these or not cheers

  • Volkan edali

    Hi, john.
    I recently bought new wheels for my 1982 Toyota land cruiser bj42, and when I put them on , the front ones rubbed against the tie rod ends so I went and bought 25mm thick 6 stud high quality aliminium adapters which solved the problem nicely, now I need to re-register the car as the rego has lapsed, should I take it to vtnz with the spacers on or without them(with original wheels), do I need lvvt for this? would they do the lvvt at vtnz at the same time, ? how much would lvvt cost if I need to do it separately? Also do I need to get wheel alignment done after installing them? Thanks any help would be appreciated

    Regards

    • johnbrett

      Hi- You will need a LVV Certification for the wheel adaptors. This can only be done by a LVV Certifier, not by VTNZ. I recommend that you get the vehicle on the road with standard wheels first, get your compliance done by VTNZ if convenient. THEN to fit the new wheels and adaptors and arrange for LVV Certification. There is no requirement for a wheel alignment for a LVV Cert for wheels and adaptors, however if the vehicle has been off the road, I recommend an alignment anyway.
      Hope this helps John

  • Ben Yates

    I want the wide stance look on my Subaru but only seem to find the rims for 5×114.3 in the right offset not 5×100 can I use adapters I know I will have to extend the guards and I am doing this but will this get certed. Thanks

    • johnbrett

      Hi Ben- I don’t understand what you mean about 5 x 114.3 and 5 x 100, could you pls explain? You will need an LVV Cert for adaptors. Remember that the maximum thickness allowed is 27 mm, also that too much offset can negatively affect the steering and handling. Hope this helps, John

  • Ben Yates

    changing the stud pattern from 5×100 to 5×114.3 if I have to much offset how badly does it effect the handling does it make it more stiff due to leverage from the wheels being pushed out using 25mm

  • johnbrett

    Hi Ben- increasing the offset will make the steering heavier, and increase kick-back. It also loads up all of the suspension joints, making them wear quicker. It puts more leverage on the springs and dampers, making them appear softer. On most modern cars, tyre and wheel widening can be added on the INSIDE as well as the OUTSIDE, so that the offset is not increased. The advice of a GOOD wheel and tyre shop is worth having, they know what works for your car. Hope this helps, John

  • Ben Yates

    I think I will not use adapters just use offset but I’m using air suspension so that’s the weight issue solved but ball joints what would be a maximum in mm that would be recommended as being so low I will have ball joint issues any way but would like a little life oh and Anti Lift Kits which lower the control arm and steering tie rods so they are on a more normal angle to get rid of the excessive angle issue do they need to be certified or even legal in NZ.

  • johnbrett

    You have quite a list of modifications there! I think you need to arrange a site visit to go over it in detail. Regards

    John

  • Ben Yates

    Where abouts are you located? keen to vist

  • johnbrett

    Would you please call us on 0800 LOWVOLUME (0800 569865) thanks, John

  • craig

    hi, i am also wanting to use adapters to change stud pattern, what info can you give me on this, is it legal, is it safe, will i need a cert aswell? cheers

    • johnbrett

      Hi Craig- you will need a Cert. It depends on the Certifier’s assessment as to whether it is legal. He will have to make sure that it is structurally safe, and that the vehicle drives OK

  • Arman

    Hi, I put on 3mm slip on spacers recently on the fronts so that my new wheels wouldn’t rub, they were rubbing on something so I needed to put on the spacers, I was just wondering would I need to cert the slip ons?

  • jay burns

    Hi. Me and my gf bought some rims second hand for her 89 e30 bmw. They turned out to b the wrong offset but we liked them and were fairly cheap so decided to get bolt on spacers. We’ve run into a problem. The spacers we bought, though they were the right center bore size(57.1 for e30 bmw), the hub centric reccess is only 10mm where as the bmw hub lip is about 13mm so they dont seat against the brake hat properly. I was wondering if we could use 15mm (front) and 20mm (rear) slip on hub centric spacers and use extended wheel bolts instead? Cheers

  • mike

    hey john,I have recently put my 1985 audi coupe quattro through certification for mods to the brakes and abs and I want to put my OEM wheels back on the car,I put it through the process on some audi rims that are OEM as well but not the original ones. I have discovered that the original wheels don’t clear the new callipers without a hub centric 12mm spacer being used…the plate on the car says the rims are OEM . I really don’t want to have to get the whole lot re checked and re-certed but I suspect that’s what needs to happen to be legal huh?

    what is the process for this? will the certifiers just look at the wheels and the spacers and re stamp the plate for me,or will they re do the whole thing and look at everything else again?

    cheers,mike

    • johnbrett

      Hi Mike- Yes the car needs re-inspection, and a new LVV Plate. The whole car will be looked at, but only the changes will be Certified. Hope this helps, John

  • Dane

    Hi if i put 10mm spacers on the front to prevent tyre rub against the upper control arm, do i need to put rear spacers on as well? I tried to search for the information to no avail. cheers

  • Zach

    Hi, Wat mods can ido to my hilux ln106 without certification ? e.g how big wheel can i go, lifting etc.

    Thanks

    Zach

    • johnbrett

      For wheels the WOF guide says than Certification is NOT required when-

      the wheels:

      – are of a known and reputable brand, and

      – would be considered an appropriate fitment for the vehicle type by the wheel manufacturer, and

      – are not modified, and

      – do not have spacers or adaptors fitted.

      the tyre tread:

      – does not protrude beyond the unmodified original body panels (including unmodified factory-fitted mudguard extensions), or

      – protrudes beyond the unmodified original body panels, but is covered by aftermarket or modified mudguard extensions or modified body panels, and the track width has increased by no more than 25mm from OE.

      Tyre size changes

      the tyres:

      – have an outer circumference that is no more than 5% greater than OE, and

      – are an appropriate selection for rim width, and

      – have tread that does not extend beyond the original or modified body panels or guard extension (see Figure 10-1-1).

      For suspension, this is all there is:
      Springs and shock absorbers

      the springs or shock absorbers are direct replacements, and
      replacement springs are contained within unmodified OE seats throughout full suspension travel, and
      replacement springs are self-retaining in their seats at full extension, without the use of non-standard devices such as wire-ties, straps, or external spring locators, and
      replacement springs have not been heated or cut, and
      springs and spring seats are not height adjustable by any means (unless OE), and
      replacement shock absorbers, including air-adjustable units, fit unmodified OE mountings, and
      suspension maintains sufficient travel for safe operation when fully laden, and
      suspension components maintain sufficient clearance from unmodified bumpstops when fully laden, and
      a minimum of 100mm ground clearance (unladen and without driver) exists below any part of the vehicle structure, or any steering, braking or suspension component2, and
      the normal relationship between front and rear suspension height is not unduly affected.

      2 Does not include such items as exhaust pipes and exterior body panels that do not contribute to the structural strength of the vehicle.

      Blocks for leaf springs to adjust their ride height (up or down)

      the suspension has not been raised by any other means, and
      the blocks are:

      – securely fitted, and

      – constructed from metal, and

      – designed for the purpose, and

      – firmly seated over not less than the OE seat area, and

      – not more than 50mm in height.

      Larger diameter anti-sway bar

      the bar is attached to unmodified OE mounting points.

      Addition of anti-sway bar

      no cutting, heating or welding to the vehicle structure or suspension components is involved in attachment of the bar.

      Suspension braces (strut tower braces)

      there are no structural changes to the body or suspension mounting points.

      Eccentric bolts/bushes for adjustability of wheel alignment (eg for camber correction in association with lowered suspensions)

      the bolts/bushes are:

      – designed as a means of correcting or improving wheel alignment; and

      – catalogued aftermarket items for that make and model of vehicle.

      There are many other things you can do which could be dangerous, but this is all I can give you from the book
      I hope this helps

  • Jon Louie Paul

    Hello,

    what kind of spacer can i use or the max size can use with out certification ?

    My car is a mazda Axela 23s.

  • julie

    Hi, I am wanting to get some 4-5 stud wheel adaptor spacers (they bolt on and convert 4 stud cars to 5 studs). They are made of T6061 Aluminium and hard anodized. Just wondering whether they would pass certification. They are hub centric.
    Cheers

    • johnbrett

      Hi Julie- They sound fine, so long as the thickness is more than about 12 mm. I would do a hardness test to check that the material is what you say and not some weak substitute, also run a stress analysis, which checks that a- the studs won’t pull thru, and b- that the adaptor won’t shear between the holes. But don’t worry about this, they are unlikely to fail unless you bought them from some dodgy chinese website. Hub- centric is good, wheel-centric is better, but the tapered nuts are considered enough to centralize the wheel. Hope this helps- John

  • Paul

    Hi John
    I have 25mm adapters fitted at the moment to have my tyres sit flush and am looking to get re-certified as a result (car is already certified).

    I really like to look and am considering getting different wheels so they sit the same (slightly wider wheels and different offset) without the spacers.

    My question really is whether this is a waste of money! The only reason I would do this is that I am concerned about the safety of the adapters. They are a reputable brand and are quality materials. About five times a year I do “playdays” on track but am by no means a race driver! Are adapters “safe”?

    Cheers

    Paul

    • johnbrett

      Hi Paul- You do need to get the vehicle re-certified if you change wheels from what was on at the time of the Cert. For Adaptors, I do a material check, and stress calculations, however this is not required by the LVV Standards.

      Hope this helps

      John

  • Connor

    Hey i want to convert 5×112 to 4×100 is it possible to certify adaptors that do this or is it not possible?

    • johnbrett

      Hi Connor
      There’s no reason why not. The usual considerations for adaptors apply, not too thin, made of decent material, not too much offset.
      John

  • damien

    Arent wheel spacers the same as wheel adaptors? Or is a spacer same stud pattern on studs and holes. And adaptors from 4×100 to 4×114? If so why only 20mm for 1 and 27mm for the other? What is the difference? I dont understand. ….. also what grade studs and nuts are required? I have found some t6 aerospace alloy. 10.9 studs with grade 8 nuts. Is this legal in nz? Thanks

  • Jeremy

    Hi i am looking at getting some hun centric spacers for my vehicle which adapt the centre bore to allow for wider range of vehicles to be fitted. they are 20mm and slip on not bolt on are they able to be certified or are they a waste of money?

  • Rob

    And are all these requirements equally applicable for light car trailers? i.e. the hub/wheel centric, widths, certification.
    Specifically the requirement for certification.
    “Land Transport Rule Tyres and Wheels 2001 Rule 32013”, would suggest yes.
    But the “In-service certification (WoF and CoF) – General trailers” “Section 7 Tyres, wheels and hubs – Reasons for Rejection” makes no mention of them.

  • Rob

    Thanks John – and no need to publish this comment and clutter the place up – just wanted to thank you for a great website with information that is actually useful and answering my question about trailers. Cheers Rob

  • Jarred

    Hi, am in the process of getting my car ready for cert, i will be going in with a 25mm adaptor fitted to make the offset better. If i was to change my wheels in the future to a better offset but not a different width, (keep same as on the cert plate) would cert been needed because i do not have spacers on the hubs anymore? thanks.

    • johnbrett

      Hi Jarred
      I assume you need a Cert for other things besides the wheels?
      If you do get a Cert, it will show the wheels (and any spacers or adaptors) fitted at the time of the Cert. If you then change the wheels, or remove spacers or adaptors, you will need a new Cert. It is quite hard to get a LVV Certifier in most towns, and getting expensive. So my advice is to do it once, the way you want it to stay.
      Cheers
      John

  • jonathan

    Hi There

    Bit of a strange question but are center lock wheels road legal? For example a similar adapter/wheel set up you may see on an old Jaguar? I assume the adapter rules and regulations are the same as any other wheel spacer/adapter?

    Thanks

    • johnbrett

      Hi Jonathan- I can not find anything in the LVV Standards about these. I would not see any problem myself, so long as they were well made and installed. Now, the LVVTA appear to make decisions on an ad-hoc basis, so better to talk to them.
      Thanks for your query

      John

  • Daniel

    Hi John, I have a B5 Audi A4 running 18×8 235/40 tyres. Due to the tyre spec and offset of the wheel i require 5mm slip on spacers. Currently have multi fit spacers which were a last resort to get the car running as the shop ran out of the correct spacers. I have ordered a pair of TORQ 5mm slip on spacers which are hub and stud centric (57.1) I was assured that these can be certified. Am I safe in thinking my car will pass? p.s this site is so helpful, its great keep up the good work.

    Thanks very much

    • johnbrett

      Hi Daniel

      Thanks for the kind comments
      You know that any spacer needs LVV Certification. The requirement is that the wheel has a method of centralizing it to the HUB, the wheel studs cannot do the job when there are two surfaces. So the spacer needs to be hub-centric AND wheel centric. Another way is to have a centering ring. The spacer needs to be attached when the wheel is removed, and the spacer has to be solid- no extra holes. Don’t forget longer studs, so you still have full length of thread engaged.
      Good luck finding a Certifier before January- I suggest you make sure your WOF has time to run before you fit the spacers!
      Hope this helps

      Regards

      John

  • martin

    hello i have some wire wheels that have knock off adapters eg a adapter that goes from 6 stud to the one large center nut from standard
    Am i alowed to add steel to the base of these adapters so there one pice like from the factory or fix a spacer plate to the hub is this legal because that is the only way to bolt up this design of wheel

    • johnbrett

      Hi Martin
      I gave the following advice recently to Jonathan on the same thing:
      “Hi Jonathan- I can not find anything in the LVV Standards about these. I would not see any problem myself, so long as they were well made and installed. Now, the LVVTA appear to make decisions on an ad-hoc basis, so better to talk to them.”
      Same advice applies-

      Regards

      John
      Thanks for your query

  • Antony

    Hi John

    When i bolt on the 20mm spacer the factory studs stick out past the spacer surface. The wheel sits on the studs rather than the spacer. The studs need to be shorter. Can i trim them with an angle grinder or do they need to be replaced with shorter ones?

    • johnbrett

      Hi Antony- There is no problem trimming the studs, just remember to replace them if you decide to remove the spacers (adaptors)
      Cheers

      John

  • andrew

    Hi there. I’ve got an old c10 and am running spacers on my rims. I’m using shank style lug nuts so the rim is still bolted directly to the brake disc/hub meaning it is essentially stud centric and the spacers are machined to fit perfectly around the shank of the lug nut making them stud centric also. Will this pass a cert as is or will I still need to add a hubcentric ring? Cheers

    • johnbrett

      Hi Andrew
      No it will not comply- because A the standard requires hub centering when there are spacers, and B it puts bending loads in the wheel studs which CAN cause stud failures

      Cheers

      John

  • andrew

    Can I trim metal from my lower control arm to clear the inside hub of my wheel to prevent rubbing and avoid having to run spacers? Cheers

    • johnbrett

      No sorry- the manufacturer spend millions on reducing the cost of that arm, and more on testing it to destruction. Only a fool would decide that some metal could be trimmed off (without any testing) and it will still be OK
      Sorry

      John

  • Ming

    I upgrading my CRZ brake to DC5 caliper with S2000 disk. But need a 1mm spacer or washer inside the disk (correct, inside the disk, ABS sensor side) to push the disk outward, to centerlines the disk in the middle of the caliper. Will this OK to LVV? Cheer

  • Sam

    Has anyone successfully purchased HubCentric Spacers through http://www.motorsport-tech.com/contact.html ?? I am looking into placing an order as all of the bolt on stuff available here in NZ starts at 15mm which is too big for my purpose.

    • johnbrett

      When they are bolt-on we call them adaptors. There is no minimum thickness for adaptors, and no material specification. I always check that the material is T6 Alloy and do a stress analysis. I find that Adaptors LESS than 15 mm thick are too weak and likely to fail.

      Since there are no rules, you could go ahead and get adaptors less than 15mm LVV Certified, if you are not worried about wheels coming off.

      Better idea is to use SPACERS with longer studs. Spacers need to be hub-centric and wheel-centric, or have a centering ring fitted.

  • Rick

    Hi, Do adapters require a cert if they are fitted to a trailer?

  • Peter

    Hi
    Is it possible to cert spacers fitted on a adapter?
    So i have a 25mm adapter changing the stud pattern from 4×140 to 4×114 but my wheel is a little to close to shock so could i add a 10mm spacer hub and wheel centric to the adapter?

  • Rob

    I want to fit a set of wheels which are perfectly compatible in size, width & offset – however the centre bore size of the wheels is 57mm & the car has only 54mm centre hub size. Is that 3mm “gap” legal? Do I have to fit some sort of ring to fill in the gap?

    • johnbrett

      Hi Rob- the wheel needs to be centered on the hub, but if there are no spacers fitted, the tapered wheel nuts center in the tapered holes in the wheels and serve that function. If spacers are fitted, this introduces bending loads on the wheel studs, so then a centering ring is needed. So the answer is- if there are no spacers fitted, a centering ring is not required. Hope this helps, John

  • tim

    do my 20mm spacers need to be bolted to the hub or can it sit like a washer plate between the rim and hub to meet cert requirements?
    regards
    tim

    • johnbrett

      See the LVVTA requirements- Spacers need to be retained on the hub when the wheel is removed. Typically a single countersunk screw is enough.

  • Brendan

    Just to clarify, I only need a few mm to clear my breaks, I can run a 5mm slip on spacer as long as it is attached to the disc? The factory wheel center thingy still sits out further than the spacer.

  • Damaraz

    Hey there
    If I have a et6 offset set of 17×8″.
    And maximum spacer thickness is 20mm can I run 2x20mm spacers to get it to the factory et46 offset?

  • Nigel

    Hi. I am getting a set of adapters to allow me to fit bigger brakes. The adapters conform to EU regulations (German). Will these need to be certified or can they be fitted and legal without any further action ? Thanks.

    • johnbrett

      Hi Nigel
      The vehicle will still need to be LVV Certified. It is the performance of the whole vehicle which is being assessed. The bigger brakes also need Certification, so you should get both done at the same time.
      Thanks

      John

  • Nigel

    Hi John.
    Thanks. How do I go about getting them certified and what is the approximate cost? Cheers Nigel

    • johnbrett

      Hi Nigel
      You will have to find a Low Volume Vehicle Certifier near you. If you have trouble, I suggest you phone NZTA. Sorry I can’t be more help.
      John

  • Nigel

    Hi John.
    Many thanks I’m on to it. Wouldn’t want to run something that could bite me! Cheers.

  • Cheyne

    Hi john

    Are adapters that change the stud pattern from 5×120 to 5×114.3 and are 15-20mm thick able to be certified?

    Cheers.

    • johnbrett

      Hi Cheyne
      In principle yes. A Certifier should always check that the material is suitable, and that there is sufficient area of metal for the load. 15 mm thick should work if the material is a 6068 T6 alloy.
      Cheers
      John

  • Kevin

    Hello,
    A colleague of mine has had two incidences where a flat tyre was replaced by the spare, but the spacer not removed. In the second incident, this left a pretty loose wheel after a few km.
    Question:
    What measures are in place to make it obvious that spacers are in use?
    First instance by a Road side service
    In the second instance the wheel nuts were checked by a second person after the tyre replaced and put the loose fitting down to not enough porridge.

    • johnbrett

      Hi Kevin

      The spacers should be fixed to the hub, usually by a couple of countersunk screws. It should be obvious to anyone changing the wheel that there is a spacer there- plus the spacers are noted on the LVV Certification Plate.

      You have not explained WHY the spare wheel came loose- if the spare was fitted over the spacer it should tighten up the same as the normal wheel.
      Having a spare wheel is NOT a WOF requirement – if you are fitting different wheels and tyres, or spacers or adaptors, and if you want to carry a spare wheel, it seems sensible to make sure that you have a spare that will still fit!
      What makes you think that the spacer should be removed? Since the wheel studs would be longer than standard, (because of the spacer) there may not be enough thread for the nuts to grip the wheel if you removed the spacer.
      Always double check that wheel-nuts are tight- I re-check them when the vehicle is on the ground.

      Hope this helps

  • Kevin

    Thanks John.
    Not my car. Car was purchased by a colleague as is. Wheels on car possibly aftermarket and prior purchase.

    Picture becoming a little clearer here. Right rear Flat tyre replaced by another person who mentioned the nuts were a bit loose. The spare tyre looks to be on a standard rim – not low profile). The one removed was a DTM Mag ( 2006 Nissan TII DA or T11) “Tightness” of nuts compared to one or two on the right front. which didn’t appear to have as much meat on the thread as say a Hilux.

    The nuts holding the spare wheel on were tightened a little further ( Double checked). After the person drove home (50 – 70 km) two of the nuts were on the ground).

    On taking the car to the mechanic, the mechanic advised that the spacer needs to be removed before putting on a spare.

    On inspection the spacer was damaged and had to be replaced. Now after the event, as under stood the spacer is made of “plastic – maybe ptfe” So one does wonder how this was missed by the person changing the tyre. Noting the first time it happened the spare had been fitted by a roadside service professional.

    Just looking to see if there is a way to avoid this in the future. (Action here is to put a tag on the tyre iron.)

    The manual wasn’t consulted at the time.
    Mind next time I’ll take the wheel off myself and check.

  • johnbrett

    This is a good example of why wheel spacers need to be LVV Certified. A spacer made from ‘Plastic’ would not get certified, you have said that there was insufficient thread on the wheel stud (which is part of an LVV Inspection)
    You haven’t said that the vehicle was LVV Certified- if it was there would be grounds for a complaint.

    The way to avoid this in the future is for the WOF agent to fail the vehicle, or the Police to pink sticker it. A properly modified and certified vehicle needs no special warnings.

  • Kevin

    Interesting conundrum as the replacement plastic type part was easily sourced at the garage so to speak. Searching for manual now. Happy to take off line. have found contact details for mag supplier

  • Kevin

    Mystery solved, after discussion with a Mag wheel supplier. And then googling locator ring.

    Must be removed when replacing the aftermarket Mag with the Car manufacturer supplied spare.

    What is a Hub Centric Ring?
    The centric ring is a device used with the rims and are installed between the car wheel hub and the rim. The purpose of the hub centric ring is to fill the empty space between the wheel hub and the center bore of the rim. Centric rings are usually made of durable industrial plastic. Centric rings are also made of aluminum. Improve the fitment & balance of your aftermarket wheels with hub centric rings
    What are centric rings needed for?
    Centric rings are needed when the hub hole (the center bore) on the rim is larger than the wheel hub of the car. The rim manufacturers deliberately make the hub ring as large as possible for the rim, taking in to consideration the hub hole, to allow the same rims to be sold for the various different models of car using hub centric rings.
    Centric rings are usually needed only for post-sale rims, since the original rims usually come with a center bore of the right size. Usually the hub centric rings are used with alloy wheels, but sometimes steel rims may need hub centric rings.
    The purpose of the centric ring is to perfectly center the alloy wheel to the wheel hub and hence prevent vibration to the steering wheel during driving and the shaking which typically appears around speeds of 40-60 mph.
    – Hubcentric rings.com

    The mag wheel supplier applies stickers to the spare. And have very good feedback from the supplier. Trap for young players may be purchasing a car with Mags and the spare is not a Mag

    • johnbrett

      Hi Kevin

      Thank you for clarifying this. Calling the item a ‘Spacer’ is what caused the confusion. Centering rings or similar ARE called for by the LVV Standard, when spacers are fitted.

      Regards

      John

  • Phil

    Hi John,

    I’m looking to use spacers to give clearance required for a set of larger rims to be fitted. 15 to 17″
    Does fitting these new items require compliance in NZ?
    Also, what is the largest thickness a “bolted to existing wheel studs type spacer” can be?

    Thanks
    Phil

  • Amos Dalkie

    need to change wheel offset, not pcd, is hub centric 25mm all breezy? going from 4×00 to 4×100
    refer to below product
    http://www.scarles.co.nz/shop-online/wheel-products/spacers/spacer-4×100-honda-25mm-pair

    • johnbrett

      Hi Amos
      As you are adding spacers (or adaptors) you will need LVV Certification. The Scarles items you link to look OK, but it’s the overall effect on the vehicle that matters. There are situations where such spacers are not safe, other situations where they are OK, depends on vehicle model, suspension, wheels fitted etc. The Certifier will do a thorough drive test including some hard braking, hard cornering. You will need to find a LVV Certifier. Cheers

  • Minh

    Hello John,
    I was wondering if you could provide some advice on wheels with factory spacers attached to them. The wheels are a reputable brand and have the same offset and hub bore as the factory wheels on the vehicle. The spacers themselves are bolted to the wheels and use the same wheel bolts and seating as the factory wheel. Would a LVV certification be required to use these? Thanks

    • johnbrett

      Hi Minh. It sounds as if these wheels and spacers would meet all the requirements without any problem. They would still need to be checked by a LVV Certifier, as there are still many unsafe items out there. Once it has been LVV Certified, any WOF agent or Policeman will have the confidence that the vehicle is all safe.

      Good luck

      John

  • Samsam

    Hi John. I have a 12mm spacer/shim fitted BEHIND the hub. Not between the hub and wheel like the ones mentioned here. I can’t find any information on weather this needs to be certed or not? Will it pass wof?

    • johnbrett

      Hi Samsam
      I can’t understand this- what is the spacer there for? Is it to do with the wheel attachment, or the brake rotor? I would check with a WOF agent, and see whet they think.

    • johnbrett

      Hi Samsam
      I see what you mean.
      I can imagine issues if not done properly.
      I don’t know of ANY specific rules, or requirements for that, other than ‘General Safety’.

      Cheers

      John

  • Ben

    Hi John,
    I want to fit 20-25mm bolt on spacers simply for the look, (as the wheels/tyres sit inside the wheel arch).
    Do I need these cirtified?
    Obviously I would use a spacer with the same stud pattern as my car has.
    Thanks

  • Craig

    You mention a spreadsheet to do the stress test. Is this available?

    • johnbrett

      No, spreadsheet is just part of my engineering assessment. You can work out the shear areas yourself quite easily. I used the wheel stud strength as my limiting load. I also did a material analysis to make sure the adaptors were made of a suitable material. None of this is required by any current LVV Standard, legally you can fit adaptors as thin as you like, made of any old pot-metal.

      Cheers

      John

  • ryan

    Hi John,
    i want to put spacers on my RX3 that has had adjustable suspension fitted in the front – is there a minimum clearance required from the inside edge of the rim to the suspension strut? straight onto the hub at the minute there is about 2mm clearance, so am looking at 6-9mm spacers. any bigger and it would create issues on the outside of the tyre rubbing on the guard.
    Also with the spacers, im looking at 1’s that are a reputable brand that will sit centrally because they are not “multifit” so to speak, just holes to suit the stud pattern, my question is, do they also have to be snug around the central bit ( inner circle/ center bore) and do they have to be permanently fixed to the hub, thank you Ryan.

    • johnbrett

      Hi Ryan
      There is NO minimum distance specified between rim and strut. If the rim does not touch, it should be OK for a WOF. If it has adjustable struts, it should have been LVV Certified. The wheels should be the same as were on when certified, or a re-certification will be needed. The requirement for spacers are in the LVV Standard 205-00 which can be downloaded from here: http://lvvta.org.nz/documents.html#standards.

      There is no charge for this free advice, but could I ask that you make a small donation to my ‘Give-a Little’ campaign? This is to cover legal costs for defending myself from Defamation charges made by Mr Johnson of the LVVTA.
      If you did want to, just click though to the Give-a Little page.

      Thanks

      John

  • Mathew

    To run a 15mm spacer the factory studs are to long to fit the wheel flush against the spacer. It is possible to cut the stud down and get it certed or are shorter studs required

    • johnbrett

      Hi Mathew
      I see no problem in cutting studs down to length. I can’t understand the factory studs being too long- surely they were sized for NO spacer.
      So long as the studs have sufficient thread engagement, there should be no problem.
      Make sure though nthat the spacers meet all the requirements

      There is no charge for this free advice, but could I ask that you make a small donation to my ‘Give-a Little’ campaign? This is to cover legal costs for defending myself from Defamation charges made by Mr Johnson of the LVVTA.
      If you did want to, just click though to the Give-a Little page.

      Cheers

      John

  • Mathew

    Hi John thanks for that.sorry I am using the wrong word I meant adapter with 15mm the factory bolts sit out to far stopping the wheel from sitting against the adapter. sure visa or something like that accepted

    • johnbrett

      Hi Matt
      Now I understand. Cutting the studs off flush with the nuts will do. It will stop you fitting standard wheels (if you change back), without replacing the studs.

      Cheers

      John

  • Mathew

    Hi john thanks for that. So cutting the studs should be certable? I went to the give a little page but it looked like your one was closed??

    • johnbrett

      It did close by itself, after collecting about $1700. I started it again a couple of months ago. Perhaps you have an old page cached on your computer?

  • Hi John I have purchased some 15 mm spacers/adaptors and would like to know if I can cut the original studs back a little as they protrude a few mm past the adaptor/spacer which means I cannot get the mag to sit flush onto the hub. There’s plenty of stud for the spacer/adaptors to bolt too and the wheels will bolt onto the adaptor bolts. Am I able to trim a few mm off as its not needed?

    Many thanks

    • johnbrett

      Hi Damon
      No problem trimming the studs, it is normally done. The Adaptors WILL need Certification. If you remove the adaotors the studs might be too short.
      Good luck
      John

  • Dam lol I should have just skipped to the end of comments to begin with. Who would have thought the answer to my question would already be there. Thanks anyway for your previous reply I will be cutting my factory studs and I also meant that the mag could not sit flush with the adaptor not the hub

    Cheers

  • Colin Horgan

    Hi John I have purchased spacers for my mini from the UK mini spares. They are an OEM part, do I need certification.

  • Nathan

    Hi John.

    Can I legally run alloy wheels that have been professionally widened?
    Do I need a cert for them?
    Thanks

  • Josh

    Hi John,

    Would 1″ wheel adapters (4×114 to 4×100) be OK on a 15×8 25p rim?

    Thanks in advance

    • johnbrett

      Hi Josh

      I can’t see any reason why this should be a problem.
      Just follow the LVV Standard for adaptors, AND make sure the adaptor is made out of decent material, not Pot-metal like some that have come into the country

      You WILL need to get them LVV Certified

      Regards

      John

  • Oliver

    Hey John,

    I was always under the impression that the LVVC was an expensive and length process for any LVVC mod.

    If I wanted to just get an LVVC for a set of 10mm spacers roughly how much is this process going to set me back?

    I’m assuming that spacers need to be hub and wheel centric and can only have as many holes in them as studs on the wheel/ hub i.e. no multi fit adapters?

    • johnbrett

      Hi Oliver
      I have just finished defending Defamation charges for criticizing the Low Volume Vehicle Technical Association. I agree that the LVV process is unnecessarily expensive and lengthy. I cannot quote for a certification as I no longer have an authority, am no longer certifying, I think the cost would be $500 at least. My page shows the requirements for spacers http://lowvolumevehicle.co.nz/2012/02/wheel-spacers-faqs/
      Thanks for your enquiry

  • Brian

    Great page for real world info when considering mods. Sorry to hear you have had to defend yourself when I’ve always found certifiers to have more experience in actual material strength and correct application that the LVV rules (which have many gaps big enough that downright stupid mods can be certed!).
    I don’t use spacers cos I’m fussy about my preferred scrub radius and set my cars up to corner not to be “hella flush” but you consistently answer questions clearly and politely.
    Brian.

    • johnbrett

      Hi Brian

      Thank you for your complements. We did used to have monthly meetings of Auckland Certifiers, where we shared knowledge and experience. I think we all came to have respect and appreciation for each others skills and knowledge. This led to us referring clients to other certifiers knowing who had specialist knowledge in the particular area.
      I have always said publicly that the LVVTA were wrong in claiming that all knowledge came from them, and over-riding Certifier’s judgements was actually not legal and contravened the Certifiers deed of appointment.

      Regarding spacers and offsets- the Certifier has to be satisfied that the car drives and steers well- you will know that cars differ hugely- some are hardly affected, others become dangerous. There is no rule that can cover this. This is where the Certifier’s judgement is important, to allow spacers on one car, but not allow them on another car.

      Regards

      John

  • Peter B

    Hi there, Im having trouble, i have good quality 8mm hub centric wheel spacers but they dont actually attach to the hub or wheel ( they sit inbetween fine and dont move as they fit on the hub snug) but they need to be attached right? is there a way to do this with these? Problem is 8-10mm is the max i can go and spacers that attach to the hub are alot more thicker then 10mm so wont work for my setup which is on an old 1971. is there anyway around this? or do i need to change my whole suspension setup now just to get this little spacer legal?
    Thanks!!

    • johnbrett

      Hi Peter

      Sorry to be so long replying- we have been away on holiday.

      The rules require that spacers are fixed either to the hub or to the wheel.
      Make sure you are talking about “SPACERS”which fit onto the standard wheel studs, not “ADAPTORS” which have separate studs.
      Spacers are usually thin, and fixed to the hub with one small screw just so they don’t fall off when a wheel is being changed.
      What model of car is this? some older cars have problems due to wheel offset when spacers or wider wheels are fitted. You will need to find a Certifier, he will be doing a test drive, and could fail it if he has this problem.

      Hope this helps

      John

Leave a Reply

You can use these HTML tags

<a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <s> <strike> <strong>