Wheel Spacers are the subject we are most common asked about.
The rules are all on the LVVTA website in the Wheels and Tyre Standard 2005-00
Adaptors
Non-Legal spacers
WHEELS MUST BE CENTRALISED ON HUB
SPACERS need to be ‘Hub Centric’ and ‘Wheel-Centric’, or a centering ring has to be made to centralise the wheel and the spacer.
This means in practice, that wheel spacers will need to be custom-made to suit the specific vehicle and wheel combination.
Also you will probably need to fit longer wheel studs to keep the required thread engagement of the nuts.
ADAPTORS are Centered on the hub by the tapered nuts hulding them onto the hub. The wheel is then Centered on the adaptor by the tapered nuts holding the wheel on.
Centering spigots for the adaptor or the wheel are not required. (See LVV Standard 2005-00)
ADAPTORS MUST BE STRONG ENOUGH NOT TO FAIL
The LVV Standard says that adaptors ‘are manufactured by someone competent and experienced in the type of work undertaken, who has the necessary equipment to carry out the manufacturing correctly’
We do not know many people in Japan, or China, and find this clause to be unhelpful.
Instead we:-
1 Do a material hardness test to determine the likely material. Most adaptors are T6 Aluminium Alloy, which has a hardness of 40 to 45 Rockwell C. We do NOT want to accidentally certify any adaptors made of soft alloy, zinc castings or shite metal!!
2 Do a simple stress calculation (using a spreadsheet template) to determine the shear stress between the bolts, and the shear under the bolt head. The adaptor should be equal in strength to the wheel studs. We find that adaptors THINNER than about 12mm are usually over-stressed.
THICKNESS
Spacers are not permitted to be more than 20 mm
Adaptors are not permitted to be more than 27 mm,
Most adaptors are to compensate for wheels with wrong offset offset, (not to effect a change in stud pattern).
WHY IT MATTERS!!
Wheels flying off can kill people (it has happened more than once)
Wheels flying off can make controlling the vehicle a tad tricky, especially since it is likely to happen under hard cornering.
People getting killed is clearly to be avoided- as is getting sent to jail for manslaughter.
THIS IS WHY ALL SPACERS AND ADAPTORS REQUIRE LVV CERTIFICATION
Failed Wheel Adaptor
THIS IS WHY WE HAVE BEEN CHECKING THE MATERIAL COMPOSITION OF ALL ADAPTORS FOR 10 YEARS
Additional information-
Tyre and rim sizes-
The LVVTA compatibilty chart can be found here
This is based on the best information available at the time the chart was written- however a Tyre manufacturers reccomendation takes preference- so check with the tyre manufacturer if you want to use a combination outside these guidelines.
Hope this clears up any confusion, and helps you to get it right before going for your Cert.
Hi i am fitting a hilux diff to my escort which requires the changing of the pcd from 5×114.3 to 4x 108 what are the laws on this? i am not running adaptor plates so do i need to have a positive hub locator ring fitted. standard escort or hilux do not have this fitted factory on the rear axle. Also what are the laws on widenend steel rims are they legal if done by a professional?
many thanks.
Matt Henderson
Hi Matt- to change the PCD why not re-drill the Hilux hubs? If not, you could make an adaptor plate. Either way, the tapered wheel nuts centre the wheel adequately, and tapered nuts centre an adaptor to the hub.
Widened steel wheels are ‘legal’, the standard says “-by someonewho is suitably competent and experienced in the wheel manufacturing or modification industry” Hope this helps, John
Hi there, i need for my celica gt4 2 wheel spacers for front wheels, 15mm. Can u tell me the price for them?
Cheers.
I don’t sell parts, sorry. Check with us before you buy though, lot of rubbish out there!
Are there certain brands or companies you would recommend that are 100% safe to use?
My purpose is to save my tyres from inner wear. (Car has recently been lowered)
I own an EG6 honda civic hatchback on superlow king springs.
The first thing is that you are going to need a LVV Cert
Secondly, your wheel alignment has to be reasonable- too much negative camber will give you inner wear.
Check your camber against factory specs. If it is too much, you might have the car too low.
For Nissans there are adjustable Camber arms, not sure if they make them for Honda Civics. These will bring excessive negative camber back to standard.
I see that they are making the Police into roadside WOF inspectors now- some think they are roadside LVV Certifiers too! Watch out!
Hey went in for very today and they said I need to drill through my spacer into my hub and screw it in even tho I have the right space is this right or is his messing me around
Hi
Ummm… how many people have been killed in New Zealand because of spacer failure? And what are the rules if you a buying a new car where, as an option, you can select spacers from the factory as an option?
Thanks
Craig
If a new car offered spacers as a factory option, they would have been tested by the manufacturer to the same standards as the rest of the car. I don’t know of any myself.
If a dealer is fitting them aftermarket, they would need to go through the LVV system.
As to “how many people have been killed in New Zealand because of spacer failure?” who would keep those sort of statistics? We have all seen what happens when wheels come off, and know the reasons why. As Engineers, the deal is that you prevent the accident from happening, not wait until you have a body count.
Porsche offer spacers as part of their options list. Re your glib comment re wheels coming off, body count and who would keep those sort of statistics? Exactly, because its not a real risk. Outside of race events, I’m not sure I can remember such an event and if you look at the states where they have no certification rules for spacers, people aren’t dying in the streets.
Porche have a range of “Adaptors” to go with specific wheels. I have Certified a few Porches with aftermarket set-ups on them. Adaptors have the risk of failure if they are too thin, or the material is sub-standard, or the design faulty. Spacers need to be hub-centric and wheel-centric, also have long enough wheel studs, or wheels WILL come off, and DO come off, and on the roads.
In the United States the Lawyers make lots of money suing people for injury and death- which is what would happen to you if a wheel came off and caused an accident. In NZ we don’t have that right to sue, it all falls to the ACC to pay.
If you want to argue about the need for LVV Certification, you should come out and see some of the dangerous stuff that we are presented with regularly- and if you want to argue about injuries and deaths, you should talk to the people who have to clean up the mess. For every DEATH, there are hundreds of INJURY accidents, people who lose parts of their bodies etc.
Hi I have recently widened a set of 14×5 steel wheels buy drilling out the spot welds putting the centres into new 14×8 barrels. I have plug welded them the the subsequent holes and also stitched the back of them. Do they need to be certified?
I’m afraid so
Why is max spacing 20mm, yet adapter max 27mm? Makes no sense…
Also if I have 27mm billet T6061 Ali spacers with magnesium hardened lug nuts and extended studs that are actually lighter with a custom race wheel than the stock wheel, where is the logic that an adaptor is ok at 27mm, but not these spacers at 27mm?? The only difference is I am retaining stock bolt pattern… Or am I missing something and being thick?
Unfortunately these are the LVV Standards that we have to work to- as Certifiers we don’t get a say. Many of the LVV Standards are clearly wrong, dangerous, and miss out the really important stuff. You would need to take this up with the Low Volume Vehicle Technical Association
hi my car has been certified for 17 by 8 rims. I want to put on 17 by 7 rims now. surely I wont have to get recerted will I? will I be denied for a wof? thanks
According to the words from the Low Volume technical Association it DOES need to be Certified again! On the other hand, it should be OK according to the WOF rules! You could phone the LVVTA on 04 2384343
Hi there… Recently purchased some 20×10 rims which at this stage look
Like they might be a bit too wide. In hindsight could have possibly gone to 20x 9.5. Is there any way to remedy the 20×10 rim to give a little bit more extra space between the chassis and inner side of tyre/rim?? Thank you
You could consider spacers or adaptors to set the wheel out further from the hub. These are a huge wheel- would need to be on a big car with enough wheelarch space. Unless the car is a 4WD you will need a very low profile tyre. Take care not to fit ‘stretched’ tyres, because they would not get a WOF or a LVV Cert. Hope this helps
Thanks John for your quick response… It’s going on a 65 impala.. Hope that’s big enough .. Ha ha
thanks
im fitting adapters to my car but when you put them on the old stud still pokes through meaning the wheel wont sit on the hub but it will be on the old studs… am i able to cut the old studs off flush with the face of the adapter or do i need to get a small hole drilled into the rear of the wheel for the old studs to sit in.
Hi Ethan- usually the studs are cut shorter. Make sure that the adaptor nuts have full thread engagement. Also check that the wheel will fit over the adaptor nuts. Don’t modify the wheel in any way- any modification could possibly result in fatigue cracks in the wheel. Hope this helps- John
so from what your saying im allowed to cut the end off the original stud that pokes out through the adapter?
Yes- but remember you won’t be able to go back to standard wheels with the short studs!
Hi there
I have put some smaller wheels on my super custom van but they wouldn’t fit over the centre hub on the front so I have put some 25mm adapters all round which also didn’t fit on the front so the shop I brought them off lathed out the centre of the adaptor to fit. Is this ok an does it need to have a low volume cert???
Hi Blair- it is going to need a Low Volume Cert. There is no easy answer, I would need to look at it to see what is a problem, and what is OK. Phone me on 0800 569865 (that’s 0800 LOWVOLUME)
Hi im fitting some wheel spacers 2 my tx3. It allready has a cert for suspension, how much would it cost to get wheel spacers added to it?
Its going to need a full cert- we might be able to get the LVV Plate cheaper from LVVTA, best to phone us
Tell me about the spacers to save problems
Hi there, i brought a set of 25mm spacers the other day as my new tyres/mags hit the shocks, so i need the spacers to provide more room on the inside. Can you give me a rough figure of how much this will cost me to get all 4 of them certified?
Hi Micheal- You would need to phone us to discuss a price. More important is whether they would be able to be passed. Phone us on 0800 569865 that’s 0800 LOWVOLUME
i have bought 3mm spacers to fit some 300c srt8 wheels 20x 9 ET27 to my std 300c which takes a 18 x 7.5 ET24 other wise the inner rim will touch the susp strut. are there any other issues that i need to think about re the stud/bolts etc. and obviously i need a lvv cert?
I think we have discussed this- the spacers need to meet the LVV requirements, which include wheel centering, spacer retention, thread engagement etc, and they will need LVV Certification. A better plan is to look for wheels that don’t need spacers. Regards John
Can I fit alloy wheels with a hub centre of 56.1 to a car with a hub centre of 57.1
Hi Dennis- are you saying that the hole in the wheel is smaller than the centre of the hub? If it is, the wheel would not fit over, would not fit. Perhaps you could phone us on 0800 LOWVOLUME, (0800 569865) Regards John
Hi there,
Im looking at putting 15 or 20mm wheel spacers on a 2004 350rx Stagea, do you know how much it would cost for a LV cert, and do you recommend a particular set of wheel spacers? Or do you know of a genuine factory option for this make and model that i could just order to fit?
If you could respond to email as i have a few questions reg your answer to any of these questions
Cheers.
Hi Ben- There are no factory adaptors or spacers for this model. You should explore the option of using wheels with the offset you require so you don’t need a Cert. Adaptors are a critical safety item and there do not seem to be any manufacturer standards,it is very possible that there are some unsafe items out there. We do a thorough inspection to determine material, and stress. I recommend you phone us on 0800 569865 to discuss further. regards, John
Hi we have a Honda logo with 15″ mags and 5mm spacers to prevent tyre rub, however I would like to fit larger profile tyres and potentially they might be slightly wider. If I fitted 20mm wheel adaptors do I need to get a cert?. I did hear that if the adapter was welded to the mag, that I wouldn’t have to get a cert.
Thanks
Tony.
Hi Tony- Spacers and adaptors ALWAYS need a LVV Cert- there’s a lot can go wrong! Don’t do any aftermarket welding onto an alloy wheel- you will destroy the temper of the alloy and the wheel will be scrap. Hope this helps. John
Hi i have a 94 toyota supra and running big brake setup of toyota 4 pot front and 2 pot rear and running a 9.5″ wheel ( tyre 245/40/18 ) on the front offset is +22 & 10.5″ wheel ( 265/35/18 ) on the rear the problem is these do not clear the 4 pots on the front. If i put on spacers ( minimum 15mm ) if will push the wheel out further but what i want to know is how far is the wheel allowed to be outside the body?
Hi Jared
I would use ADAPTORS not spacers, but make sure that they are made of T6 alloy. The TYRE TREAD has to be covered, to stop road spray from going upwards, but the sidewall and rim can be outside the guard. I haven’t checked tyre to rim compatibility- but those tyre sizes seem too small for the rim width- you should check this by the tyre manufacturer’s chart. All of this will need LVV Certifying- don’t wait until you get n infringement notice! Hope this helps- regards John
Hi John
Thanks for your quick reply. Sorry they are adaptors not spacers my mistake, The adaptors are hub centric and are CNC machined aluminium T6-6061. I only went on what was under the lvv chart http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2009_V2_Tyre_Size_to_Wheel_Size_Compatibility_Guide.pdf . Will check to see if tyre tread is covered thanks.
Hi John,
I am planning on putting wheel spacers on my rear wheels. If I get some Spacers (below 10mm) that are hub centric and put hub centring rings over the top to fit my wheels is that legal? or will I have to get some spacers custom made to integrate the change in size from hub to wheel? Thanks in advance
Hi Corey- The main object is to centralize the wheel to the hub- and a centering ring should achieve this. Hope this helps- John
Hi John 1 other question if i used a spacer of 8mm ( universal ) made out of t6 alloy and bought and fitted longer wheel studs to compensate would this be up to lvv certifying standard? If not why? Thanks.
Hi
I have a mr2aw11 stock pcd of 4×100 and want to change the pattern to 4×114.3. I do not want to go down the track of ‘hub adaptors’ but rather redrill the hubs+rotors to the new pcd of 4×114.3. After doing a bit of research online it looks this cannot be possible due to the stock aw11 hubs not having a large enough diameter to accomodate for the wider stud pattern.I was just wondering if you would know any shop/engineer that could make custom hubs? Or is there any other options around this. Any information would be greatly appreciated thank you.
Making custom hubs is likely to be expensive- I would have thought that making adaptors would have been easier.
For an Engineering company, I can recommend Prescott Engineering, in Prescott street Penrose, Ph 09 5797424
Hope this helps- John
hey john im going to put OEM 19″x8 et40 5×100 replica a8 wheels on my 2001 black audi tt quattro 4×4 1.8t which has an et35 and will need spacers 10mm all round im in wellington can you point me in the right direction to get some or some made? or brands that meet requirements would help alot thanks
would these comply with cert
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/audi/auction-651234686.htm
These look fine. I always check the material with a hardness test. The material specified is here:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2024_aluminium_alloy, at least 200 Mpa max tensile strength. I also check stress loadings between the holes and under the bolt heads. If they come with a copy of TUV approval, this covers all of this. (I worry about the spacers /adaptors from unknown source, made from shite metal- I hope nobody accidentaly certifies them!)
Hi,
I’m looking at getting some 20mm hub centric bolt on spacers for a 93 vr commodore just for the rear wheels as they tuck under the body, would like them to sit out further basically. The spacers I’m looking at are a high strength alloy, what are my options , will I need a cert for these or not cheers
Hi Robert- Yes the vehicle will need to be LVV Certified
Hi, john.
I recently bought new wheels for my 1982 Toyota land cruiser bj42, and when I put them on , the front ones rubbed against the tie rod ends so I went and bought 25mm thick 6 stud high quality aliminium adapters which solved the problem nicely, now I need to re-register the car as the rego has lapsed, should I take it to vtnz with the spacers on or without them(with original wheels), do I need lvvt for this? would they do the lvvt at vtnz at the same time, ? how much would lvvt cost if I need to do it separately? Also do I need to get wheel alignment done after installing them? Thanks any help would be appreciated
Regards
Hi- You will need a LVV Certification for the wheel adaptors. This can only be done by a LVV Certifier, not by VTNZ. I recommend that you get the vehicle on the road with standard wheels first, get your compliance done by VTNZ if convenient. THEN to fit the new wheels and adaptors and arrange for LVV Certification. There is no requirement for a wheel alignment for a LVV Cert for wheels and adaptors, however if the vehicle has been off the road, I recommend an alignment anyway.
Hope this helps John
I want the wide stance look on my Subaru but only seem to find the rims for 5×114.3 in the right offset not 5×100 can I use adapters I know I will have to extend the guards and I am doing this but will this get certed. Thanks
Hi Ben- I don’t understand what you mean about 5 x 114.3 and 5 x 100, could you pls explain? You will need an LVV Cert for adaptors. Remember that the maximum thickness allowed is 27 mm, also that too much offset can negatively affect the steering and handling. Hope this helps, John
changing the stud pattern from 5×100 to 5×114.3 if I have to much offset how badly does it effect the handling does it make it more stiff due to leverage from the wheels being pushed out using 25mm
Hi Ben- increasing the offset will make the steering heavier, and increase kick-back. It also loads up all of the suspension joints, making them wear quicker. It puts more leverage on the springs and dampers, making them appear softer. On most modern cars, tyre and wheel widening can be added on the INSIDE as well as the OUTSIDE, so that the offset is not increased. The advice of a GOOD wheel and tyre shop is worth having, they know what works for your car. Hope this helps, John
I think I will not use adapters just use offset but I’m using air suspension so that’s the weight issue solved but ball joints what would be a maximum in mm that would be recommended as being so low I will have ball joint issues any way but would like a little life oh and Anti Lift Kits which lower the control arm and steering tie rods so they are on a more normal angle to get rid of the excessive angle issue do they need to be certified or even legal in NZ.
You have quite a list of modifications there! I think you need to arrange a site visit to go over it in detail. Regards
John
Where abouts are you located? keen to vist
Would you please call us on 0800 LOWVOLUME (0800 569865) thanks, John
hi, i am also wanting to use adapters to change stud pattern, what info can you give me on this, is it legal, is it safe, will i need a cert aswell? cheers
Hi Craig- you will need a Cert. It depends on the Certifier’s assessment as to whether it is legal. He will have to make sure that it is structurally safe, and that the vehicle drives OK
Hi, I put on 3mm slip on spacers recently on the fronts so that my new wheels wouldn’t rub, they were rubbing on something so I needed to put on the spacers, I was just wondering would I need to cert the slip ons?
Any spacers need certifying- and many are not suitable unsafe, and cannot be certed check out http://lowvolumevehicle.co.nz/2012/02/wheel-spacers-faqs/
Hi. Me and my gf bought some rims second hand for her 89 e30 bmw. They turned out to b the wrong offset but we liked them and were fairly cheap so decided to get bolt on spacers. We’ve run into a problem. The spacers we bought, though they were the right center bore size(57.1 for e30 bmw), the hub centric reccess is only 10mm where as the bmw hub lip is about 13mm so they dont seat against the brake hat properly. I was wondering if we could use 15mm (front) and 20mm (rear) slip on hub centric spacers and use extended wheel bolts instead? Cheers
I suggest that you read http://lowvolumevehicle.co.nz/2012/02/wheel-spacers-faqs/, or the LVV Standards. There is no reason why front and rear spacers have to be same thickness, but have to meet the requirements. Cheers, John
hey john,I have recently put my 1985 audi coupe quattro through certification for mods to the brakes and abs and I want to put my OEM wheels back on the car,I put it through the process on some audi rims that are OEM as well but not the original ones. I have discovered that the original wheels don’t clear the new callipers without a hub centric 12mm spacer being used…the plate on the car says the rims are OEM . I really don’t want to have to get the whole lot re checked and re-certed but I suspect that’s what needs to happen to be legal huh?
what is the process for this? will the certifiers just look at the wheels and the spacers and re stamp the plate for me,or will they re do the whole thing and look at everything else again?
cheers,mike
Hi Mike- Yes the car needs re-inspection, and a new LVV Plate. The whole car will be looked at, but only the changes will be Certified. Hope this helps, John
Hi if i put 10mm spacers on the front to prevent tyre rub against the upper control arm, do i need to put rear spacers on as well? I tried to search for the information to no avail. cheers
No- you do not have to put on rear spacers
Thanks for your enquiry
Regards
john
Hi, Wat mods can ido to my hilux ln106 without certification ? e.g how big wheel can i go, lifting etc.
Thanks
Zach
For wheels the WOF guide says than Certification is NOT required when-
the wheels:
– are of a known and reputable brand, and
– would be considered an appropriate fitment for the vehicle type by the wheel manufacturer, and
– are not modified, and
– do not have spacers or adaptors fitted.
the tyre tread:
– does not protrude beyond the unmodified original body panels (including unmodified factory-fitted mudguard extensions), or
– protrudes beyond the unmodified original body panels, but is covered by aftermarket or modified mudguard extensions or modified body panels, and the track width has increased by no more than 25mm from OE.
Tyre size changes
the tyres:
– have an outer circumference that is no more than 5% greater than OE, and
– are an appropriate selection for rim width, and
– have tread that does not extend beyond the original or modified body panels or guard extension (see Figure 10-1-1).
For suspension, this is all there is:
Springs and shock absorbers
the springs or shock absorbers are direct replacements, and
replacement springs are contained within unmodified OE seats throughout full suspension travel, and
replacement springs are self-retaining in their seats at full extension, without the use of non-standard devices such as wire-ties, straps, or external spring locators, and
replacement springs have not been heated or cut, and
springs and spring seats are not height adjustable by any means (unless OE), and
replacement shock absorbers, including air-adjustable units, fit unmodified OE mountings, and
suspension maintains sufficient travel for safe operation when fully laden, and
suspension components maintain sufficient clearance from unmodified bumpstops when fully laden, and
a minimum of 100mm ground clearance (unladen and without driver) exists below any part of the vehicle structure, or any steering, braking or suspension component2, and
the normal relationship between front and rear suspension height is not unduly affected.
2 Does not include such items as exhaust pipes and exterior body panels that do not contribute to the structural strength of the vehicle.
Blocks for leaf springs to adjust their ride height (up or down)
the suspension has not been raised by any other means, and
the blocks are:
– securely fitted, and
– constructed from metal, and
– designed for the purpose, and
– firmly seated over not less than the OE seat area, and
– not more than 50mm in height.
Larger diameter anti-sway bar
the bar is attached to unmodified OE mounting points.
Addition of anti-sway bar
no cutting, heating or welding to the vehicle structure or suspension components is involved in attachment of the bar.
Suspension braces (strut tower braces)
there are no structural changes to the body or suspension mounting points.
Eccentric bolts/bushes for adjustability of wheel alignment (eg for camber correction in association with lowered suspensions)
the bolts/bushes are:
– designed as a means of correcting or improving wheel alignment; and
– catalogued aftermarket items for that make and model of vehicle.
There are many other things you can do which could be dangerous, but this is all I can give you from the book
I hope this helps
Hello,
what kind of spacer can i use or the max size can use with out certification ?
My car is a mazda Axela 23s.
Hi Jon Louie
ALL spacers need to be Certified, no exceptions
Details on requirements for spacers and adaptors are on this site- at http://lowvolumevehicle.co.nz/2012/02/wheel-spacers-faqs/
I hope this helps
Regards John
Hi, I am wanting to get some 4-5 stud wheel adaptor spacers (they bolt on and convert 4 stud cars to 5 studs). They are made of T6061 Aluminium and hard anodized. Just wondering whether they would pass certification. They are hub centric.
Cheers
Hi Julie- They sound fine, so long as the thickness is more than about 12 mm. I would do a hardness test to check that the material is what you say and not some weak substitute, also run a stress analysis, which checks that a- the studs won’t pull thru, and b- that the adaptor won’t shear between the holes. But don’t worry about this, they are unlikely to fail unless you bought them from some dodgy chinese website. Hub- centric is good, wheel-centric is better, but the tapered nuts are considered enough to centralize the wheel. Hope this helps- John
Hi John
I have 25mm adapters fitted at the moment to have my tyres sit flush and am looking to get re-certified as a result (car is already certified).
I really like to look and am considering getting different wheels so they sit the same (slightly wider wheels and different offset) without the spacers.
My question really is whether this is a waste of money! The only reason I would do this is that I am concerned about the safety of the adapters. They are a reputable brand and are quality materials. About five times a year I do “playdays” on track but am by no means a race driver! Are adapters “safe”?
Cheers
Paul
Hi Paul- You do need to get the vehicle re-certified if you change wheels from what was on at the time of the Cert. For Adaptors, I do a material check, and stress calculations, however this is not required by the LVV Standards.
Hope this helps
John
Hey i want to convert 5×112 to 4×100 is it possible to certify adaptors that do this or is it not possible?
Hi Connor
There’s no reason why not. The usual considerations for adaptors apply, not too thin, made of decent material, not too much offset.
John
Arent wheel spacers the same as wheel adaptors? Or is a spacer same stud pattern on studs and holes. And adaptors from 4×100 to 4×114? If so why only 20mm for 1 and 27mm for the other? What is the difference? I dont understand. ….. also what grade studs and nuts are required? I have found some t6 aerospace alloy. 10.9 studs with grade 8 nuts. Is this legal in nz? Thanks
The difference between Adaptors and spacers is explained on my page http://lowvolumevehicle.co.nz/2012/02/wheel-spacers-faqs/
The LVV Standards don’t specify any grades, so according to LVVTA any sort of metal is OK
When I was Certing I looked for a 6068 T6 Alloy, and ran a stress calculation to make sure they didn’t fail and shed a wheel.
Cheers
John
Hi i am looking at getting some hun centric spacers for my vehicle which adapt the centre bore to allow for wider range of vehicles to be fitted. they are 20mm and slip on not bolt on are they able to be certified or are they a waste of money?
And are all these requirements equally applicable for light car trailers? i.e. the hub/wheel centric, widths, certification.
Specifically the requirement for certification.
“Land Transport Rule Tyres and Wheels 2001 Rule 32013”, would suggest yes.
But the “In-service certification (WoF and CoF) – General trailers” “Section 7 Tyres, wheels and hubs – Reasons for Rejection” makes no mention of them.
Hi Rob
Low Volume Vehicle Certification does not apply to trailers.
The In-Service Inspection (WOF) is here:
http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general-trailers/tyres,-wheels-and-hubs/tyres-and-wheels
That’s all you have to meet.
There are clearly a few un-regulated dangers with trailers!
Cheers
John
Hi, is this up to date ie I can fit adaptors to a trailer as lvv does not apply ? Cheer Lee
Thanks John – and no need to publish this comment and clutter the place up – just wanted to thank you for a great website with information that is actually useful and answering my question about trailers. Cheers Rob
Hi, am in the process of getting my car ready for cert, i will be going in with a 25mm adaptor fitted to make the offset better. If i was to change my wheels in the future to a better offset but not a different width, (keep same as on the cert plate) would cert been needed because i do not have spacers on the hubs anymore? thanks.
Hi Jarred
I assume you need a Cert for other things besides the wheels?
If you do get a Cert, it will show the wheels (and any spacers or adaptors) fitted at the time of the Cert. If you then change the wheels, or remove spacers or adaptors, you will need a new Cert. It is quite hard to get a LVV Certifier in most towns, and getting expensive. So my advice is to do it once, the way you want it to stay.
Cheers
John
Hi There
Bit of a strange question but are center lock wheels road legal? For example a similar adapter/wheel set up you may see on an old Jaguar? I assume the adapter rules and regulations are the same as any other wheel spacer/adapter?
Thanks
Hi Jonathan- I can not find anything in the LVV Standards about these. I would not see any problem myself, so long as they were well made and installed. Now, the LVVTA appear to make decisions on an ad-hoc basis, so better to talk to them.
Thanks for your query
John
Hi John, I have a B5 Audi A4 running 18×8 235/40 tyres. Due to the tyre spec and offset of the wheel i require 5mm slip on spacers. Currently have multi fit spacers which were a last resort to get the car running as the shop ran out of the correct spacers. I have ordered a pair of TORQ 5mm slip on spacers which are hub and stud centric (57.1) I was assured that these can be certified. Am I safe in thinking my car will pass? p.s this site is so helpful, its great keep up the good work.
Thanks very much
Hi Daniel
Thanks for the kind comments
You know that any spacer needs LVV Certification. The requirement is that the wheel has a method of centralizing it to the HUB, the wheel studs cannot do the job when there are two surfaces. So the spacer needs to be hub-centric AND wheel centric. Another way is to have a centering ring. The spacer needs to be attached when the wheel is removed, and the spacer has to be solid- no extra holes. Don’t forget longer studs, so you still have full length of thread engaged.
Good luck finding a Certifier before January- I suggest you make sure your WOF has time to run before you fit the spacers!
Hope this helps
Regards
John
hello i have some wire wheels that have knock off adapters eg a adapter that goes from 6 stud to the one large center nut from standard
Am i alowed to add steel to the base of these adapters so there one pice like from the factory or fix a spacer plate to the hub is this legal because that is the only way to bolt up this design of wheel
Hi Martin
I gave the following advice recently to Jonathan on the same thing:
“Hi Jonathan- I can not find anything in the LVV Standards about these. I would not see any problem myself, so long as they were well made and installed. Now, the LVVTA appear to make decisions on an ad-hoc basis, so better to talk to them.”
Same advice applies-
Regards
John
Thanks for your query
Hi John
When i bolt on the 20mm spacer the factory studs stick out past the spacer surface. The wheel sits on the studs rather than the spacer. The studs need to be shorter. Can i trim them with an angle grinder or do they need to be replaced with shorter ones?
Hi Antony- There is no problem trimming the studs, just remember to replace them if you decide to remove the spacers (adaptors)
Cheers
John
Hi there. I’ve got an old c10 and am running spacers on my rims. I’m using shank style lug nuts so the rim is still bolted directly to the brake disc/hub meaning it is essentially stud centric and the spacers are machined to fit perfectly around the shank of the lug nut making them stud centric also. Will this pass a cert as is or will I still need to add a hubcentric ring? Cheers
Hi Andrew
No it will not comply- because A the standard requires hub centering when there are spacers, and B it puts bending loads in the wheel studs which CAN cause stud failures
Cheers
John
Can I trim metal from my lower control arm to clear the inside hub of my wheel to prevent rubbing and avoid having to run spacers? Cheers
No sorry- the manufacturer spend millions on reducing the cost of that arm, and more on testing it to destruction. Only a fool would decide that some metal could be trimmed off (without any testing) and it will still be OK
Sorry
John
I upgrading my CRZ brake to DC5 caliper with S2000 disk. But need a 1mm spacer or washer inside the disk (correct, inside the disk, ABS sensor side) to push the disk outward, to centerlines the disk in the middle of the caliper. Will this OK to LVV? Cheer
Has anyone successfully purchased HubCentric Spacers through http://www.motorsport-tech.com/contact.html ?? I am looking into placing an order as all of the bolt on stuff available here in NZ starts at 15mm which is too big for my purpose.
When they are bolt-on we call them adaptors. There is no minimum thickness for adaptors, and no material specification. I always check that the material is T6 Alloy and do a stress analysis. I find that Adaptors LESS than 15 mm thick are too weak and likely to fail.
Since there are no rules, you could go ahead and get adaptors less than 15mm LVV Certified, if you are not worried about wheels coming off.
Better idea is to use SPACERS with longer studs. Spacers need to be hub-centric and wheel-centric, or have a centering ring fitted.
Hi, Do adapters require a cert if they are fitted to a trailer?
Hi Rick- There is no mention in the WOF guide- for trailer wheels http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general-trailers/tyres,-wheels-and-hubs/tyres-and-wheels. The only thing I can see the inspector could fail it on is- insecurely attached, or insufficent thread engagement. Hope tghis helps- John
Hi
Is it possible to cert spacers fitted on a adapter?
So i have a 25mm adapter changing the stud pattern from 4×140 to 4×114 but my wheel is a little to close to shock so could i add a 10mm spacer hub and wheel centric to the adapter?
No
I want to fit a set of wheels which are perfectly compatible in size, width & offset – however the centre bore size of the wheels is 57mm & the car has only 54mm centre hub size. Is that 3mm “gap” legal? Do I have to fit some sort of ring to fill in the gap?
Hi Rob- the wheel needs to be centered on the hub, but if there are no spacers fitted, the tapered wheel nuts center in the tapered holes in the wheels and serve that function. If spacers are fitted, this introduces bending loads on the wheel studs, so then a centering ring is needed. So the answer is- if there are no spacers fitted, a centering ring is not required. Hope this helps, John
do my 20mm spacers need to be bolted to the hub or can it sit like a washer plate between the rim and hub to meet cert requirements?
regards
tim
See the LVVTA requirements- Spacers need to be retained on the hub when the wheel is removed. Typically a single countersunk screw is enough.
Just to clarify, I only need a few mm to clear my breaks, I can run a 5mm slip on spacer as long as it is attached to the disc? The factory wheel center thingy still sits out further than the spacer.
Hi Brendan- Yes a 5 mm slip on spacer is fine, so long as it meets the LVV requirements, and is LVV Certified Regards- John
Hey there
If I have a et6 offset set of 17×8″.
And maximum spacer thickness is 20mm can I run 2x20mm spacers to get it to the factory et46 offset?
Hi Damaraz
Easy answer-
NO
Sorry, John
Hi. I am getting a set of adapters to allow me to fit bigger brakes. The adapters conform to EU regulations (German). Will these need to be certified or can they be fitted and legal without any further action ? Thanks.
Hi Nigel
The vehicle will still need to be LVV Certified. It is the performance of the whole vehicle which is being assessed. The bigger brakes also need Certification, so you should get both done at the same time.
Thanks
John
Hi John.
Thanks. How do I go about getting them certified and what is the approximate cost? Cheers Nigel
Hi Nigel
You will have to find a Low Volume Vehicle Certifier near you. If you have trouble, I suggest you phone NZTA. Sorry I can’t be more help.
John
Hi John.
Many thanks I’m on to it. Wouldn’t want to run something that could bite me! Cheers.
Hi john
Are adapters that change the stud pattern from 5×120 to 5×114.3 and are 15-20mm thick able to be certified?
Cheers.
Hi Cheyne
In principle yes. A Certifier should always check that the material is suitable, and that there is sufficient area of metal for the load. 15 mm thick should work if the material is a 6068 T6 alloy.
Cheers
John
Hello,
A colleague of mine has had two incidences where a flat tyre was replaced by the spare, but the spacer not removed. In the second incident, this left a pretty loose wheel after a few km.
Question:
What measures are in place to make it obvious that spacers are in use?
First instance by a Road side service
In the second instance the wheel nuts were checked by a second person after the tyre replaced and put the loose fitting down to not enough porridge.
Hi Kevin
The spacers should be fixed to the hub, usually by a couple of countersunk screws. It should be obvious to anyone changing the wheel that there is a spacer there- plus the spacers are noted on the LVV Certification Plate.
You have not explained WHY the spare wheel came loose- if the spare was fitted over the spacer it should tighten up the same as the normal wheel.
Having a spare wheel is NOT a WOF requirement – if you are fitting different wheels and tyres, or spacers or adaptors, and if you want to carry a spare wheel, it seems sensible to make sure that you have a spare that will still fit!
What makes you think that the spacer should be removed? Since the wheel studs would be longer than standard, (because of the spacer) there may not be enough thread for the nuts to grip the wheel if you removed the spacer.
Always double check that wheel-nuts are tight- I re-check them when the vehicle is on the ground.
Hope this helps
Thanks John.
Not my car. Car was purchased by a colleague as is. Wheels on car possibly aftermarket and prior purchase.
Picture becoming a little clearer here. Right rear Flat tyre replaced by another person who mentioned the nuts were a bit loose. The spare tyre looks to be on a standard rim – not low profile). The one removed was a DTM Mag ( 2006 Nissan TII DA or T11) “Tightness” of nuts compared to one or two on the right front. which didn’t appear to have as much meat on the thread as say a Hilux.
The nuts holding the spare wheel on were tightened a little further ( Double checked). After the person drove home (50 – 70 km) two of the nuts were on the ground).
On taking the car to the mechanic, the mechanic advised that the spacer needs to be removed before putting on a spare.
On inspection the spacer was damaged and had to be replaced. Now after the event, as under stood the spacer is made of “plastic – maybe ptfe” So one does wonder how this was missed by the person changing the tyre. Noting the first time it happened the spare had been fitted by a roadside service professional.
Just looking to see if there is a way to avoid this in the future. (Action here is to put a tag on the tyre iron.)
The manual wasn’t consulted at the time.
Mind next time I’ll take the wheel off myself and check.
This is a good example of why wheel spacers need to be LVV Certified. A spacer made from ‘Plastic’ would not get certified, you have said that there was insufficient thread on the wheel stud (which is part of an LVV Inspection)
You haven’t said that the vehicle was LVV Certified- if it was there would be grounds for a complaint.
The way to avoid this in the future is for the WOF agent to fail the vehicle, or the Police to pink sticker it. A properly modified and certified vehicle needs no special warnings.
Interesting conundrum as the replacement plastic type part was easily sourced at the garage so to speak. Searching for manual now. Happy to take off line. have found contact details for mag supplier
Mystery solved, after discussion with a Mag wheel supplier. And then googling locator ring.
Must be removed when replacing the aftermarket Mag with the Car manufacturer supplied spare.
What is a Hub Centric Ring?
The centric ring is a device used with the rims and are installed between the car wheel hub and the rim. The purpose of the hub centric ring is to fill the empty space between the wheel hub and the center bore of the rim. Centric rings are usually made of durable industrial plastic. Centric rings are also made of aluminum. Improve the fitment & balance of your aftermarket wheels with hub centric rings
What are centric rings needed for?
Centric rings are needed when the hub hole (the center bore) on the rim is larger than the wheel hub of the car. The rim manufacturers deliberately make the hub ring as large as possible for the rim, taking in to consideration the hub hole, to allow the same rims to be sold for the various different models of car using hub centric rings.
Centric rings are usually needed only for post-sale rims, since the original rims usually come with a center bore of the right size. Usually the hub centric rings are used with alloy wheels, but sometimes steel rims may need hub centric rings.
The purpose of the centric ring is to perfectly center the alloy wheel to the wheel hub and hence prevent vibration to the steering wheel during driving and the shaking which typically appears around speeds of 40-60 mph.
– Hubcentric rings.com
The mag wheel supplier applies stickers to the spare. And have very good feedback from the supplier. Trap for young players may be purchasing a car with Mags and the spare is not a Mag
Hi Kevin
Thank you for clarifying this. Calling the item a ‘Spacer’ is what caused the confusion. Centering rings or similar ARE called for by the LVV Standard, when spacers are fitted.
Regards
John
Hi John,
I’m looking to use spacers to give clearance required for a set of larger rims to be fitted. 15 to 17″
Does fitting these new items require compliance in NZ?
Also, what is the largest thickness a “bolted to existing wheel studs type spacer” can be?
Thanks
Phil
Hi Phil
Changing wheel size does not require certification, providing rolling radius and track width changes are within limits.
See http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/tyres,-wheels-and-hubs/tyres-and-wheels
Spacers and adaptors ALWAYS need LVV Certification, and there are many factors to consider. There is a limit of 27 mm for adaptors, but that doesn’t mean that 27 mm will be automatically approved on your vehicle.
The Certifier has to assess a range of issues, including driving, steering and braking.
Cheers
John
need to change wheel offset, not pcd, is hub centric 25mm all breezy? going from 4×00 to 4×100
refer to below product
http://www.scarles.co.nz/shop-online/wheel-products/spacers/spacer-4×100-honda-25mm-pair
Hi Amos
As you are adding spacers (or adaptors) you will need LVV Certification. The Scarles items you link to look OK, but it’s the overall effect on the vehicle that matters. There are situations where such spacers are not safe, other situations where they are OK, depends on vehicle model, suspension, wheels fitted etc. The Certifier will do a thorough drive test including some hard braking, hard cornering. You will need to find a LVV Certifier. Cheers
Hello John,
I was wondering if you could provide some advice on wheels with factory spacers attached to them. The wheels are a reputable brand and have the same offset and hub bore as the factory wheels on the vehicle. The spacers themselves are bolted to the wheels and use the same wheel bolts and seating as the factory wheel. Would a LVV certification be required to use these? Thanks
Hi Minh. It sounds as if these wheels and spacers would meet all the requirements without any problem. They would still need to be checked by a LVV Certifier, as there are still many unsafe items out there. Once it has been LVV Certified, any WOF agent or Policeman will have the confidence that the vehicle is all safe.
Good luck
John
Hi John. I have a 12mm spacer/shim fitted BEHIND the hub. Not between the hub and wheel like the ones mentioned here. I can’t find any information on weather this needs to be certed or not? Will it pass wof?
Hi Samsam
I can’t understand this- what is the spacer there for? Is it to do with the wheel attachment, or the brake rotor? I would check with a WOF agent, and see whet they think.
Heya,
Here is what i mean.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v259/johnnyco2k2/Scion/evolved%20concepts/IMG_9623.jpg~original
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd67/mrcraig777/instruction-sheet-1.jpg
Thank you for your response!
Hi Samsam
I see what you mean.
I can imagine issues if not done properly.
I don’t know of ANY specific rules, or requirements for that, other than ‘General Safety’.
Cheers
John
Hi John,
I want to fit 20-25mm bolt on spacers simply for the look, (as the wheels/tyres sit inside the wheel arch).
Do I need these cirtified?
Obviously I would use a spacer with the same stud pattern as my car has.
Thanks
Hi Ben
Yes, that will need to be Certified
John
You mention a spreadsheet to do the stress test. Is this available?
No, spreadsheet is just part of my engineering assessment. You can work out the shear areas yourself quite easily. I used the wheel stud strength as my limiting load. I also did a material analysis to make sure the adaptors were made of a suitable material. None of this is required by any current LVV Standard, legally you can fit adaptors as thin as you like, made of any old pot-metal.
Cheers
John
Hi John,
i want to put spacers on my RX3 that has had adjustable suspension fitted in the front – is there a minimum clearance required from the inside edge of the rim to the suspension strut? straight onto the hub at the minute there is about 2mm clearance, so am looking at 6-9mm spacers. any bigger and it would create issues on the outside of the tyre rubbing on the guard.
Also with the spacers, im looking at 1’s that are a reputable brand that will sit centrally because they are not “multifit” so to speak, just holes to suit the stud pattern, my question is, do they also have to be snug around the central bit ( inner circle/ center bore) and do they have to be permanently fixed to the hub, thank you Ryan.
Hi Ryan
There is NO minimum distance specified between rim and strut. If the rim does not touch, it should be OK for a WOF. If it has adjustable struts, it should have been LVV Certified. The wheels should be the same as were on when certified, or a re-certification will be needed. The requirement for spacers are in the LVV Standard 205-00 which can be downloaded from here: http://lvvta.org.nz/documents.html#standards.
There is no charge for this free advice, but could I ask that you make a small donation to my ‘Give-a Little’ campaign? This is to cover legal costs for defending myself from Defamation charges made by Mr Johnson of the LVVTA.
If you did want to, just click though to the Give-a Little page.
Thanks
John
To run a 15mm spacer the factory studs are to long to fit the wheel flush against the spacer. It is possible to cut the stud down and get it certed or are shorter studs required
Hi Mathew
I see no problem in cutting studs down to length. I can’t understand the factory studs being too long- surely they were sized for NO spacer.
So long as the studs have sufficient thread engagement, there should be no problem.
Make sure though nthat the spacers meet all the requirements
There is no charge for this free advice, but could I ask that you make a small donation to my ‘Give-a Little’ campaign? This is to cover legal costs for defending myself from Defamation charges made by Mr Johnson of the LVVTA.
If you did want to, just click though to the Give-a Little page.
Cheers
John
Hi John thanks for that.sorry I am using the wrong word I meant adapter with 15mm the factory bolts sit out to far stopping the wheel from sitting against the adapter. sure visa or something like that accepted
Hi Matt
Now I understand. Cutting the studs off flush with the nuts will do. It will stop you fitting standard wheels (if you change back), without replacing the studs.
Cheers
John
Hi john thanks for that. So cutting the studs should be certable? I went to the give a little page but it looked like your one was closed??
It did close by itself, after collecting about $1700. I started it again a couple of months ago. Perhaps you have an old page cached on your computer?
Hi John I have purchased some 15 mm spacers/adaptors and would like to know if I can cut the original studs back a little as they protrude a few mm past the adaptor/spacer which means I cannot get the mag to sit flush onto the hub. There’s plenty of stud for the spacer/adaptors to bolt too and the wheels will bolt onto the adaptor bolts. Am I able to trim a few mm off as its not needed?
Many thanks
Hi Damon
No problem trimming the studs, it is normally done. The Adaptors WILL need Certification. If you remove the adaotors the studs might be too short.
Good luck
John
Dam lol I should have just skipped to the end of comments to begin with. Who would have thought the answer to my question would already be there. Thanks anyway for your previous reply I will be cutting my factory studs and I also meant that the mag could not sit flush with the adaptor not the hub
Cheers
Hi John I have purchased spacers for my mini from the UK mini spares. They are an OEM part, do I need certification.
Hi Colin
If the spacers are specified by the manufacturer for your vehicle, then they are replacement parts
If not, they are a modification.
The VIRM then requires LVV Certification- see:
http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/tyres,-wheels-and-hubs/tyres-and-wheels
There is no charge for this free advice, but could I ask that you make a small donation to my ‘Give-a Little’ campaign? This is to cover legal costs for defending myself from Defamation charges made by Mr Johnson of the LVVTA.
If you did want to, just click though to the Give-a Little page.
Cheers
John
Hi John.
Can I legally run alloy wheels that have been professionally widened?
Do I need a cert for them?
Thanks
Hi Nathan
I believe you DO need a Cert for modified wheels- wee the WOF guide here: http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/tyres,-wheels-and-hubs/tyres-and-wheels
This modification is not excluded from needing certification
Cheers
John
Hi John,
Would 1″ wheel adapters (4×114 to 4×100) be OK on a 15×8 25p rim?
Thanks in advance
Hi Josh
I can’t see any reason why this should be a problem.
Just follow the LVV Standard for adaptors, AND make sure the adaptor is made out of decent material, not Pot-metal like some that have come into the country
You WILL need to get them LVV Certified
Regards
John
Hey John,
I was always under the impression that the LVVC was an expensive and length process for any LVVC mod.
If I wanted to just get an LVVC for a set of 10mm spacers roughly how much is this process going to set me back?
I’m assuming that spacers need to be hub and wheel centric and can only have as many holes in them as studs on the wheel/ hub i.e. no multi fit adapters?
Hi Oliver
I have just finished defending Defamation charges for criticizing the Low Volume Vehicle Technical Association. I agree that the LVV process is unnecessarily expensive and lengthy. I cannot quote for a certification as I no longer have an authority, am no longer certifying, I think the cost would be $500 at least. My page shows the requirements for spacers http://lowvolumevehicle.co.nz/2012/02/wheel-spacers-faqs/
Thanks for your enquiry
Great page for real world info when considering mods. Sorry to hear you have had to defend yourself when I’ve always found certifiers to have more experience in actual material strength and correct application that the LVV rules (which have many gaps big enough that downright stupid mods can be certed!).
I don’t use spacers cos I’m fussy about my preferred scrub radius and set my cars up to corner not to be “hella flush” but you consistently answer questions clearly and politely.
Brian.
Hi Brian
Thank you for your complements. We did used to have monthly meetings of Auckland Certifiers, where we shared knowledge and experience. I think we all came to have respect and appreciation for each others skills and knowledge. This led to us referring clients to other certifiers knowing who had specialist knowledge in the particular area.
I have always said publicly that the LVVTA were wrong in claiming that all knowledge came from them, and over-riding Certifier’s judgements was actually not legal and contravened the Certifiers deed of appointment.
Regarding spacers and offsets- the Certifier has to be satisfied that the car drives and steers well- you will know that cars differ hugely- some are hardly affected, others become dangerous. There is no rule that can cover this. This is where the Certifier’s judgement is important, to allow spacers on one car, but not allow them on another car.
Regards
John
Hi there, Im having trouble, i have good quality 8mm hub centric wheel spacers but they dont actually attach to the hub or wheel ( they sit inbetween fine and dont move as they fit on the hub snug) but they need to be attached right? is there a way to do this with these? Problem is 8-10mm is the max i can go and spacers that attach to the hub are alot more thicker then 10mm so wont work for my setup which is on an old 1971. is there anyway around this? or do i need to change my whole suspension setup now just to get this little spacer legal?
Thanks!!
Hi Peter
Sorry to be so long replying- we have been away on holiday.
The rules require that spacers are fixed either to the hub or to the wheel.
Make sure you are talking about “SPACERS”which fit onto the standard wheel studs, not “ADAPTORS” which have separate studs.
Spacers are usually thin, and fixed to the hub with one small screw just so they don’t fall off when a wheel is being changed.
What model of car is this? some older cars have problems due to wheel offset when spacers or wider wheels are fitted. You will need to find a Certifier, he will be doing a test drive, and could fail it if he has this problem.
Hope this helps
John
Hi there, I would like to offset my 22 inch mags on my 2008 Toyota Hilux Ute due to the flares I have installed. What is the maximum thickness adapter I can use before needing a cert? Thanks for the advice.
Hi Lucky
You will need a Cert for ANY Adaptor. There is a Max thickness of 27 mm, and no minimum thickness is specified. For strength reasons Adaptors have to made from a good material, (Steel or a decent Alloy) and not too thin.
Failure of an adaptor will cause a wheel to come off, potentially causing two accidents- the 3 wheel can, and the loose wheel hitting something
Good luck
John
Hi again, what if I go for a set of mags that have a negative offset ? What are the draw backs as I prefer to stay away from a cert as it has its limitation as to what I can do after that.
There is no requirement for a Cert if there are no spacers or adaptors. I cannot advise on the suitability of a wheel and tyre fitment without more information, sorry. Negative Offset means that the contact point of the tyre is inside the line of the king pin- so there is a negative scrub radius. Not many vehicles are built with negative offset- and you are unlikely to achieve it with a wheel change without other problems- such as wheel fouling suspension or brake. Why would you want to anyway?
Cheers
John
Morning, I have installed a set of 4×4 flares and would like to move the wheel out to match.
Hi again
That would give POSITIVE offset, not negative.
You would not need a Cert for that
If your vehicle is a 4WD it is probably not going to cause any problems, but do check clearances, and steering.
Cheers
John
Hi John, I couldn’t find a suitable subject page so sorry for asking here.
Would I need a cert for a carbon roof panel?
1992 ST190 Toyota Corona. Would want to leave 200mm of metal border, 100mm of that recessed for a flush finish and a carbon panel bonded in.
Thanks, Brian.
Hi Brian
The VIRM (Warrant of Fitness guide) allows cutting holes in roofs, usually for sunroofs etc. There is no LVV Standard for Body modification. I would say that you would not require a LVV Cert for this.
Thanks
John
Hi John can I use a slip on brake rotor from a lexus/celsior over an original valiant hub(factory rotor is behind the hub flange) to obviously improve braking but also space the wheel out slightly. What would the requirements of the hub to rotor seating be?
Hi Richard. If I understand properly, you want to use the Lexus/Celsior rotor as a spacer. If so, see the normal requirements for wheel spacers. I don’t understand what you mean about improving braking. Are you going to make up a new brake caliper set-up? Cannot see how a rotor fitted behind the wheel could work in any caliper. I would need more details.
The Valiant disk brakes were OK for the vehicle, to improve them talk to someone like Race-brakes who may suggest better pads/linings.
You will need a LVV Cert whatever.
Cheers
John
HI John,
Hope all is well. Just wanted a bit of clarification around slip-on vs bolt-on spacers. I’ve currently got a 2008 Audi A4 Quattro with 9″ wide wheels, and am looking to push the wheels out ever so slightly to fill out the arch. This would require probably no more than 10mm spacers at the rear and 5mm spacers at the front (along with extended bolts). Since the spacers are so thin, I would assume bolt-ons are a no go. Therefore, I would think hub-centric slip ons are the way to go. Are these legal/certifiable? I’ve read on-line mixed viewpoints as to whether slip-ons are legal…
Also, are you aware of any downsides to running smaller spacers such as the ones I’ve detailed above? (I understand it’s difficult to give an opinion without driving the car, but a vague idea is OK).
Thanks in advance,
Daniel
Hi Daniel
You are right- slip on spacers would be the way to go. There is actually no written minimum thickness for bolt on adaptors, but I have calculated that they are too weak, and likely to fail if less than about 15mm thick.
Audi have very low wheel offset in standard form, and are not likely to be affected by the increased offset created by 5 or 10 mm spacers.
In contrast, I once failed a Mk 1 Cortina for excessive offset with just 6 inch wheels and low profile radials- because that model had excessive offset in standard form, and with the wider wheels it was trying to steer itself into the ditch at every bump.
I don’t think you will have any problem, but you will need a LVV Cert.
Best wishes
John
Hi I have a mk4 cortina and am looking at changing the front end to falcon 5stud I know you can buy kits for them but they are very costly are you able to redrill hubs still these days cheers
Hi Nathan
I believe that hubs can still be re-drilled- subject of course to sufficient metal around the new holes.
Hi John,
I have a toyota Altezza and have just brought 17×7.5’s for it which actually came off another Altezza. However mine fit perfectly on the back and not the front, they rub on the breaks. Is a spacer the best option for me? Do you know roughly how much it would cost to get it certed or is it more worth it to sell them?
Hi Hayley
If you need a spacer, you need a LVV Cert. I don’t do certs now, so can’t quite a price. I would expect at least $500 to $600 It might be better to go with different wheels and save the money
Best of luck
Hi John,
I have bought a Falcon ute with 27mm bolt on spacers at the rear to fill the arch more. I’ve removed the spacers and found that the wheel inside hub hole in the rear wheels had a small lip of about 1mm id was die ground off in order to fit the factory mags over the aftermarket spacers. From what i have read in comments above… With spacers fitted the wheels must be hub centered and stud centered (then also certified) So running these wheels with spacers is 1. unsafe and 2. not legal anyway and would likely fail LVV cert test.
I’ve removed the spacers and have fitted semi slicks to the “modified” by die grinder wheel hub centers to run at the drags perhaps.
Given these modified/altered wheels have tapered nuts is my theory correct that they will center up anyway without the spacers and be safe. The amount of alloy removed appears to be minimal and appears to not compromise the wheel structure as a mag wheel shop pointed out they can be milled out anyway.
Thoughts i’d appreciate your opinion on below.
1. I can no longer sell these wheels as they are modified and no longer original/safe.
2. Will the wheels center up with tapered nut system anyway
3. Do i just run them for drags with an awareness that they are worthless to anyone now & not worth keeping.
4. Should i look into getting them milled and fitting hub eccentric spaces in them.
Hi Joe
You need to read up on Spacers, and Adaptors- the requirements are different. Adaptors are centred by the tapered wheel nots and the tapered nuts holding them to the hub. Spacers are not, so need to be centred by a flange on the hub and to the wheel. Older Falcons had a narrower distance flange to flange, and were often fitted with adaptors so later wheels with less offset could be fitted. There is no automatic change to handling with spacers or adaptors- depending on the vehicle and the change, all sorts of things can happen, or not happen.
Cheers
John
Hi John,
One more aspect to my question sorry.
What is the likely change in performance characteristics of running 27mm spacers on the rear only… I have read under steer is likely.
Appreciate your thoughts.
Hi John,
I have a 1999 Audi A3 running in 5×100 but I have a 5×112 wheels want to put it on. I got a 20mm Adaptor in front and 25mm for the back is that I need to get the cert for it?
I am planning to get the lower spring is that need a cert too?
Or I get the cert until I get it all done?
If in Auckland North Shore where is better choice to get the cert and what is price I am looking after?
Thank you very much.
Frank
Hi Frank
Better to get one Cert for adaptors and springs. Make sure that adaptors are made of decent MTL, such as T6 alloy. Suspension, the A3 is already pretty low, further lowering can cause camber problems.You will need a wheel alignment report, showing cambers within acceptable tolerance of OE specs. Sorry I cannot recommend certifiers now. cheers, John
Hi John,
Hi have changed my stock street 20inch wheels on my VW Touareg with 17inch winter wheels with all terrian tires.
The 17inch alloy wheels are OEM for the Touareg but have a very tight fit to the front calipers (around 3-5mm).
It just looks a bi close to me so i have been investigating fitting wheel spacers.
Scarles have off the shelf 25mm spacers that suit the PCD but the lug bolts on the Touareg need to be trimmed.
Who can i take the vehicle to to get these fitted and certified?
Thanks and Regards
Greg
Hi Greg
First off, are the calipers FLOATING – do they move as the pads wear? If so, you need to make sure you have enough clearance when new pads are fitted.
Second- 3 mm clearance is enough, assuming the clearance is not going to change as the pads wear or are replaced
Third- 25 mm thick sounds like ADAPTORS, which bolt onto the hub, which is why you would need to trim the studs.
I cannot advise who to take it to, I would have thought any decent Mechanic could do this
Fourth- you WILL need to get the vehicle Low Volume Vehicle Certified.
Best of luck
John
Hi John,
I am trying to change my toyota hilux surf tyre size from the stock ones to a set of 33×12.5×15, to do this i need a set of 20mm bolt on spacers (adaptors), the ones i am looking at are from CPNZ (www.conceptparts.co.nz)
Specifications:
– FORGED Billet 6061-T6 aluminium
– Grade 10.9 studs M12 x 1.50 with nuts
– CNC machined for accuracy and balance
– Black anodized to help prevent oxidation
– Laser etched
– 6×139.7 PCD
– 20mm thickness
– 106 inner and outer centre bores
looking at the info on this page they are legal? please could you advise before i press the buy button?
many thanks,
hamish.
Hi Hamish
These sound like they would be OK. The Hilux Surf is a vehicle which can accept these larger tyres. I don’t expect you would have any problems getting a LV Cert.
Hey there Are these Spacers any good? They are for a 190E Merc fitting 18″ BBS Wheels
https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/other/listing-1729626992.htm
Hi ily
They look OK from the advert.
You still need a Cert.
Best of luck
John
Hi John,
Quick question around slip on spacers, I need to space out my rear wheels. I have seen 5mm slip on hub centric and stud centric spacers. They are custom made from billet T6 Aluminium Alloy and they also have a lip on them for the wheels to sit on. In order to get them certified will I need any paperwork to accompany these? Same goes for the longer studs, will paperwork be required? Do they just get screwed to the hub?
Thanks,
Kris
Hi Kris
The Low Volume System as far as I know, does not call for any test certificates of anything, either spacers, or of studs. It is all based on ‘Looks good to the Certifier on the day’
Cheers
John
Hi John,
Know of any certifiers in Tauranga/Mt Maunganui area?
Where are you based?
Cheers
Hi Lane
Sorry I am no longer a Certifier. I am facing the Lawyers for LVVTA and Mr Johnson in the Court of Appeal on the 20th, for daring to criticize them. Also sorry I cannot recommend any Certifiers in Tauranga Mr Maunganui.
Cheers
John
Hi John
I thought I had done my research – but can you confirm. I have a suzuki escudo (5 stud) and have added some Toyota rims by using a set of adaptors as in your picture. I was failed at the VTNZ testing station and required to get an LVR. The local certifier in town here says they are not compliant as they are 2 pieces ie he is calling them 2 spacers. Is this correct?
Hi Robert
I am sorry but I cannot comment, because I cannot see the adaptors / spacers.
You need to talk to the Certifier who failed them, and get him to explain
Cheers
John
Hello John.
Our Trailpro 8×4 trailer was safety recalled. I am purchasing a smaller NZ made trailer. It is in good condition except the hubs are 4 x 114.3 with 12.5 inch wide rims carrying low profile commercial wheels; not ideal. For a better range of wheels, I want to change to 5 x 114.3.
Is it permissible to re-drill? I would use one original stud position and my trig tells me that the other 4 holes will not interfere with the original. Also, is there a requirement to fill the old stud holes?
Thanks for your advice
EDIT :should read – “except the hubs are 4 x 114.3 with 12.5″ diameter x 6.75″ wide rims carrying 225x50R12.5 commercial wheels.”
Hi James- those 12.5 x 6.75 commercial wheels sound like great trailer wheels. There is no restriction on re-drilling hubs- but do NOT try to weld up un-used holes- the heat could affect the temper of the metal of the hub.
Cheers
John
I drew and overlayed a 5×100, a 5×114.3 and overlayed them on 4×114.3 and I am not satisfied with what I saw, so that idea is not a go for me.
Yes, the tyres are good John. They ride well and probably have superior puncture resistance but come time to replace them, they will cost a small arm. I think that as it is a domestic trailer, narrower wheels will suit me better and the corresponding tyres will be readily available and less $$. If I find suitable hubs I may change them out to 5 x 100 to suit my Corona ( the car spare can be utilised for the trailer).
This trailer was manufactured as a farm road unit. Now days the same manufacturer makes a dedicated farm trailer with balloon tyres that is not designed to be roadworthy.
Thank you for your reply.
Hi James- The big issue with trailers is load rating- many trailers do not have tyres rated for the load they carry. I have fitted LT (Light Truck) tyres on a caravan because the car tyres previously fitted were too light could not stand high pressure, and kept failing. After that, the car type rims started splitting- I needed commercial rims. Punctures and not much of a problem with trailers. I don’t know what you intend to carry on your trailer, but suggest you re-look at the load rating issue. Those commercial tires sound to me like an ideal choice, I would keep them.
Cheers John
Hi James, I am restoring a 1974 MK1 Escort 1300GT. As you may know the original wheels were 12″ x 5″. I have been given a mint set of 13″ x 5.5″ rostyle wheels which i am keen to use but will require 10mm spacers to clear them well away from the front struts. I am a retired fitter, turner and machinist and have my own lathe and milling machine so I plan to make these out of 10mm mild steel plate. I understnad what you are saying at the start of your website, so my understanding is if i machine all surfaces and bore the spacers out to a snug centric fit on the wheel hub centre spigot and mark the PCD for the wheel studs while still in the lathe. I will then drill the 4 stud holes in the spacer in a dividing head on my milling machine. Shouldnt these then comply with regulations?
ps there are heaps of spacers on Trademe etc which are very flimsy aluminium and very little contact surfaces. Surely these are illegal for road use?
Rutger Kohler
Hi Rutger. From your description these would be Adaptors, with a second set of studs holding the wheel onto the adaptor. Steel is a good material, the strength is needed to stop the studs pulling through, and to resist cracking between the holes. I agree that some alloy adaptors are too weak, but the LVVTA standards still allow them. What you propose sounds good, you will still need a LVVTA Cert. Good luck, John
Hey there
Im wanting to go from 5×114.3mm to 5×120.7 ( 4.5″ to 4.75″ ) i have found adapters online just wondering if theyd pass a cert when it comes time as im transplating an egine etc as well
Cheers
Hi Jayden
I can’t advise you whether any particular adaptor will pass a Cert. The rules are there on my webpage http://lowvolumevehicle.co.nz/2012/02/14/wheel-spacers-faqs/ and on the LVVTA Standards page https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Wheels_&_Tyres.pdf- In addition, in my professional opinion, the material needs to be at least a T6 Alloy or steel, and the thickness at least 12 mm, but this is not written into any standard.
The Certifier also takes into account the affect on the vehicles handling and braking- this is rarely an issue with modern cars, but can be a problem with some older cars.
Sorry I can’t be of more help- good luck
John
Hi John.
I really learned a lot reading the faqz, your knowledge & experience shine thru & is greatly appreciated.
I have a Subaru Outback & would like to fit a set of quality used aftermarket 16×7 wheels with 215 65 tyres instead of the 17’s, but a couple of things concern me.
The center bore is smaller than original, 53 vs 56.1 standard.
Is it ok to have the bore ‘drilled’ to fit?
Also, the offset is 35 instead of 48 and the wheels will sit further out.
I’ve read on forums etc that the 16’s/tyre size and offset works but would value your view before committing.
Cheers
Peter
Hi Peter-
Sorry to be so long in replying.
I will not comment on this, as I am not able to see the wheels, and fitment. I would not EXPECT that removal of 3 mm on the inside diameter would have any affect. Note that the VIRM (Warrant of Fitness guide) does not allow any modification of wheels- See https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/tyres,-wheels-and-hubs/tyres-and-wheels
Regards
John
Thank you John
Superb site you have here but I was wondering if you knew
of any user discussion forums that colver the same topics talked
about here? I’d really like to be a part of community where I can get suggestions from other knowledgeable individuals that share the same interest.
If you have any suggestions, please let me
know. Thanks!
Feel free to shrf to my blog post Undangan Nikah
Hi John,
I fitted my old volvo rims 4×114.3 to my other mitsubishi colt 06 using a TORQ wheel adapters 15mm 4×100-4×114.3.
The Rear wheels seems to have a tiny gap between the wheel adapter fitted & the rim.
I interchanged the rims & adapters to check but its the same issue.
Do you know what could be the problem here why there is a tiny gap on one side of the wheel between the adapter & rim.
Cheers
John
Hi JohnK- No I have no way of knowing why there is a gap. Perhaps get someone else to have a look at it?
Cheers
John
hi John,
i have a 2011 BMW X5 40d with staggered 20inch rims,
Tyres are hideously expensive, so i have picked up a set of X5 18 inch rims, with good ( Michelin) tyres. 20mm hub and wheel centric spacers are commercially available, so do i need certification to use these on the rear, packing out the huge wheel arches…? thanks, Paul
Hi Paul
Spacers always require Certification- there are dangers.
I recently did a report for an Insurance company on a rolled BMW 5 series. I had to report that
1 The wheels and tyres roling radius and width were far outside the manfacturer’s range- (BMW offered a range of wheel sizes, but the rolling radius stayed the same)
2 The vehicle could not have got a WOF with these tyres and wheels
3 It is unlikely that it could have got a LVV Certification because the extreme tyre and wheel sizes would have seriously compromised the suspension steering and handling.
I imagine that the owner did not get his Insurance payout
So- take care- don’t spoil a good BMW and void your insurance, and create possible liability in case of any accident
Cheers
John
thanks John,
I appreciate your swift and informed reply.
The 18’s and the 255/55 tyres are as per the options listed on the door frame, (rolling diameter is 738mm vs the R20 315/35 729mm , 275/40 728mm staggered set)
so i am within bmw’s recommendations.
My research is based on the uk owners forums, where a lot of them put on winter tyres, on 18’s, and want to not make the big ass of the x5 look undershod/ skinny.
in your opinion, would the handling change at all with the back being staggered 20mm each side?
cheers,
Paul
Hi John. I am planning on fitting 15mm hub centric and wheel centric adapters on my 86 mustang. It is vinned, but reg on hold while i do some tidying up on it. Can i bring in just the adapters to get them certified, or do i have to bring in the whole car.( I would have to trailor it.) Many thanks, Brian
Hi Brian
What is being Certified is the vehicle with the modifications, not just the component
I don’t know what Certifier you are using, you will need to arrange with him.
Sorry I cannot help any further.
Cheers
John
Hi John,
My Mazda R100 Coupe was certified way back in 1995 and still retains the original paper declaration cert. I am toying with the idea of putting the standard factory steel rims back on it to replace the 15×6.5 inch wheels it had on it when it was certed. Is there any issue in me doing this, seeing as I am going back to the factory standard rims?
Thanks
Paul
Hi Paul
I may be wrong here, but I believe that removal of a modification does NOT require re-certification or other fol-de-rol. What I would do is check with a VTNZ, VINZ or AA station and ask them if they would have any issue with a WOF.
Cheers
John
Do wheel spacers have to be hubcentric if the wheel itself is already hub centric to the hub which sticks out further than the spacer itself? In my case if I was to run a centric spacer, I would have to machine the wheel itself to accommodate a hubcentric lip.
Hi Malvin
The LVV Standard for wheels, tyres and spacers says the following:
2.5(1)(e) “be fitted as to ensure the wheel locates snugly over the hub spigot so that
the hub carries the weight of the wheel assembly instead of the wheel”
studs, or where there is a mis-match between the hub spigot and the
wheel centre, a close tolerance fit center bore locator must be provided;
So what you propose will be fine
Cheers
John
Hi John,
I was told from internet after countless search that you are the best in this criteria.
I recently fitted a new set of aftermarket wheels of similar specs to my OEM ones. And noticed I only have 2-3mm clearance between brake caliper and the wheel for front (they only had 25 or 45 offset, 25 would have poked out from the fender).
A 3 mm slip-on spacer would give me a plenty peace of mind.
Could you please advise me:
Where to buy a spacer that perfectly fit to a specific car (mine is Nissan)?
Can they it be custom made? by who if so?
Who do you have to see to get them certified? (I also found you no longer to certification)
I did study and search for quite long but all I can get is general laws… I want more specific and useful info!
Thank you very much!
Hi EJ
First thing, single sided calipers move as the lining wear. You will want to make sure you will have enough clearance with either new or worn pads. Do that first, so you know what thickness spacers you need.
Next, keeping the wheel central on the hub is essential. If the wheel is tight on the centre of the hub that will be OK. If not, you need spacers that are hub centric and wheel centric. You could be lucky and find them at a specialist wheel place. Most likely you will have to get them machined up to match car and wheels.
Wheel studs, depending on spacer thickness you may need to fit longer studs to have enough engagement of the nut.
Finally, all spacers need to be certified.
It’s really a lot of hassle, often easier to look for wheels with the right amount of offset!
Good luck
John
Wow John,
Thank you very much for your immediate response.
Just to clarify from your reply:
1. Nothing to worry if not single sided caliper and the wheel is tight on the centre of the hub,
2. if not any of in 1. get spacer.
Also, sorry one last question, I would first have to buy spacers and then get them certified? (can slip-on be certified?)
Thank you!
Hi EJ
You are right- If the wheel is not touching the caliper, and the caliper is NOT the floating type, there should be no need for a spacer.
Centralizing wheels- The normal tapered wheel nuts are enough to centralize the wheel. When spacers are fitted the wheel can then move, so the need for something to centralize it. Usually the wheel also centralizes on the hub too, which is does the job.
I don’t know how other Certifiers do things, but I prefer to explain how to do things first, so time and money is not wasted.
If you are going to fit spacers, I think you know enough now of the requirements, so should not be failed for a LVV Cert.
Best wishes
John
Thank you very much John!
Will I be able to get a 25mm bolt on spacer certified if it’s made out of 6061 t6 Aluminum with a 56mm cb for a 2008 Subaru
Hi Pieter
It depends on many other things. I cannot answer for the Certifier who will be doing the job, sorry.
Cheers
John
Hi John,
Have bought and fitted some aftermarket 20 inch alloy wheels and tires to my 80 series landcruiser. Is it correct that the max spacer I can fit is 20mm? The 20mm spacers will need LVV certification? Also please advise what you charge for the certification. Thanks for your help.
Hi Mike
You are right, 20 mm spacers are within the thickness limit for spacers. Yes, all spacers need LVV Certification. Any change in offset will make no difference to a Landcruiser (one of the things for the certifier to check- some cars get all squirrelly with increased offset)
Sorry, I don’t do Certification now
Cheers
John
Hi mate
I own Xr6 2003 and I’m looking at using spacers on rear,my mags 18×9.5 45p offsets. 5×114.3 and tire size 245/45/18.im looking at buying TORQ bullet wheel spacers 15mm. is this a safe brand.and can please tell how much to get it certified.
Thanks
Joseph
Hi Joseph
All I can do is refer you to the LVV Standards for Spacers
https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Wheels_&_Tyres.pdf
I am not a Certifier, so cannot quote a price for Certification
Cheers
John
Hjohn
Can you please help. I bought a car and bought new tyres for it. I was informed by the tyre place tha my back wheel has a 3mm spacers on it do I have to get this certs?
Thanks
Joseph
Hi Joseph
First check if you actually need the 3 mm spacers. If not, remove them.
If you do need them, make sure they comply with the LVVTA standards. You will need to get them Certified
Cheers
John
Hi John I own a Plymouth Fury when I brought it came with 18″ mags and 30mm bolt on spacers, Chinese one’s which I know I have to replace.
Can I use 30mm spacers and I will have to get the car LVC I imagine.
Regards
Wayne
Hi Wayne
The bolt on spacers are called “Adaptors” in the standards. The requirements for these are in the LVVTA Standards. Being Chinese is not a fail, 30 mm thick is allowed, the material needs to be a good grade of alloy, I always did a hardness test to spot any made of weak soft stuff. You will need LVV Certification
Cheers, John
Hi John thanks for the reply.
Im positive after checking out my car that I would only need 20mm adaptors.
I will buy some LVVTA certified adaptors.to get
Adain I will need a LVV CERTIFICATION for the adaptors I understand.
How much is it to get LVV
Regards
Wayne
Hi Wayne-
It is not the adaptors that are Certified. It is the complete vehicle WITH the wheels and adaptors that are certified. Your adaptors could be fine on your car, and not OK on another car. Sorry I do not do LVV Certifications now.
Cheers
John
Hey John.
Just have a few questions about spacers and how to get them legal. I need 5mm spacers to clear the front brakes for my new wheels because they are rubbing at the moment. My new wheels have a different hub size to the car. What types of spacers are legal and would suit my application? I have found some hubcentric slip ons which I’m pretty sure adapts the car hub size to the new wheel size.
If the spacers are the correct hub size for the car, does it matter if the wheel hub is bigger or does the wheel hub need to adapt to be the same size as the car hub for it to be legal?
Also, can the spacers be multi-hole, i.e. to fit multiple PCDs or for it to be legal, is it better if there is only the correct bolt pattern for the car?
Are floating slip ons illegal? They are far easier to come across than hubcentric slip ons but it’s a priority for me to have my car legal.
Where would you recommend getting the spacers certified? Can’t seem to find much info about this online.
I will also purchase wheel bolts of the correct extension for the 5mm spacers so I still have the correct amount of bolt thread.
are the spacers I am looking at (if you have anything to say about them).
Thanks very much in advance for any information you can give me 🙂
-Hugo
Hi Hugo
5 mm spacers- make sure that 5 mm is enough to clear the caliper when new brake pads are fitted- I have seen cars where they are OK with part worn pads, but hit when new pads are fitted
Wheel centralization- with just spacers, a wheel will fret and move about, making wheel nuts come lose, and fatiguing studs. The Standard requires that the wheel be centralized- on the spacer, and the spacer on the hub.
An alternative is a centralizing ring, machined to fit the hub, and the wheel. Any good machine shop could machine those up for you out of steel, if you took the car and the wheels around and let them do the measurements.
Multi-hole spacers are not allowed- just the holes required.
The spacers you link to could be OK, if the diameters match.
I cannot recommend any LVV Certifiers now- you will have to check the list on the LVVTA website
Best of luck
John
Really appreciate your help, thank you.
How much would you expect cert for spacers to cost? I got one quote and it seems ridiculously expensive…
Also what are the disadvantages of running spacers without cert?
Hi again. Costs: there are high costs now charged by the LVVTA, which go onto the charge to you. Some of this is due to hundreds of thousands of dollars of legal costs being paid by LVVTA trying to sue me for Defamation, and more preparing to defending a very large damages action by U-Drive Mobility. Certifiers are having to pay high insurance and professional indemnity insurances, and are reluctant to take on some work. I expect you could be quoted $550 to $1000 for any Cert now. I will not comment on driving without a Cert.
Cheers
John.
Ok. Was really hoping to not have to pay that much. Don’t know what I would’ve done without you, it’s so hard to find information about this on the internet. Thanks again so much
Hi I’ve recently brought some new rims and tires of a private seller and the center gap is not sitting on the hub it is lug centric im just wondering what can I do and is it illegal to have lug centric instead of hub centric? Also is their anyways I can make the wheel hun centric instead of lug centric thanks.
Hi im building a ford falcon eb im planing to do metal flares as im running 3 piece work meisters 18x.9.5-3 121mm deep dish 235/40/18 and 18×10.5-1 134mm deep dish with xyz coilovers allround ive got touqe 25mm spacers atm but snice putting my tyres on i cant get it to go over the studs i was going to get wider spacers made till i read this so if i got say 35mm spacers for the front and 50mm for the rear custom made it wouldnt pass cert? What options do i have for making my car wider then ?